Yuji was on his usual grind of doing whatever possible to not sit still out there haha. He caught more waves today than most people have so far this week here. As you can see, he’s not afraid to charge some gurgle-y little drainers.
“It’s high noon.”
Although Yuji has been clocking some serious hours at Spot X lately, I think Kai may still have all of us by a fair margin in terms of experience at this peak. Kai does everything he can to take-off as deep as possible when barrel riding.
Alright, this is good wave number two for Kai. He’s got one on Yuji now.
The waves were good during this window, but the wind was no joke as evidenced here. Kai managed to project himself down the wave quick enough to avoid getting held up in the lip by the quick jack from the wave and the ridiculous wind gust.
Successful takeoff. Now time to create some drag and enter the belly of the beast. I won’t share the full sequence here, but Kai was gone for a while on this one and made it at the end.
I really like Yuji’s frontside barrel riding style — specifically how he keep his lead hand low and pointing out of the barrel while also flashing us the palm of his trailing hand. The trailing hand flare is unique to Yujer’s surfing.
You may think that you’d like to surf at Spot X, but are you ready for these inverted, chunky slabs? I certainly could’ve made kook slams on a few of my waves during my session there this afternoon.
Kai also enjoys novelty in his surfing. He made a switch-stance pid-dog barrel.
Yuji gets the badge of valor for driving into this backdoor, mutated beast of a wave. The crazy thing is that he had so much speed that he almost made this tube despite how crazy deep he was.
Yuji will be the Iguana aerialist this year by the looks of things. He comes close to pulling a few of these each day, getting closer and closer.
Many are called, few are chosen. Another epic day at Spot X in paradise. We can’t complain! Tomorrow the wind is going to be biblical, but I know Yuji will be dedicated enough to give it a paddle irrespective of the nuclear offshore wind that will pummel us tomorrow. Thanks for checking in and have a good one.
RECENT REPORTS
Hey everyone! Welcome to Saturday evening’s surf report from Panga Drops / French Fries. The wind was light, there was still some size, but it was jumbled up out there.
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