The barrels weren’t easy to make today, but this guy made it happen.
Snagging a bit of tube time with that full arm drag.
Ok now you can count it, he’s definitely in there.
And just squeezing out as it pinches on him
The north direction of this recent swell is making the rights a little more available.
This one came in over in no man’s land, but what a gem. Too bad no one was in the right spot.
A few ramps out there today letting the rippahs practice their air game.
No grab backside punt, nice work.
He had a chance to pull this one, but he came down a bit off-center.
This is the same surfer taking it vertical on his back-hand. The few guys that were out seemed to know what they were doing.
Looks like word got out the surf came up. A few visitors made the hike from Gigante.
It’s officially an air-show.
I see a lot of boosting but not a lot of landing. Makes for good shots at least.
Lay-back tube? Someone did their yoga this morning.
The sets were coming through with a bit more size, but not quite staying open like we like.
A lot of families visiting this time of year. Kodak moments like this happening all over the place. On that note, it’s time for this guy to put down the camera and pick up a shredstick. Thanks for reading and stay tuned. Theo saying adios.
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FROM THE ARCHIVES
Hola amigos, we were planning to make it to the beach in the morning today, but it didn’t happen because it was raining. We ended up heading to the beach right before dark, still raining a bit and this is what we found. Light onshore winds, shoulder high waves on the bigger sets and murky..
Hey what’s up everyone? Finally, the offshore winds have returned and so have the crowds! Fun surf out there today with waves in the chest to head high range and light offshore winds. Seemed like everyone made it out in the water today, and I don’t blame them after all the onshore and rains we’ve..