He was also riding in style for his turns! He caught this beautiful right all the way to the beach.
Where would you rather be? Jeff’s position for the tuck in tube to finish the wave? Or dropping in on an open wave with plenty of face to rip?
I think this guy (who was behind Jeff previously) would rather have the entire wave. Me too!
Don Hannahs, aka “Donnie Boy,” came for a visit with my Mom. He didn’t know he would be taking late drops on this big of a board…
He rode this wave all the way in to our next stop: the empty nine hole golf course.
Him and his business partner always say “old guys rule.” I think that surfer and I will say young guys rule!!! #sorrydad
Right after, a set came through and broke perfectly on our reef. Nobody can complain when they split the a frame!!
Mark form Long Beach, CA was working the morning waves. He was stoked for the warm water and fun rollers.
His cutback was almost as stylish as his Open Mic Night performance last night. Was that a Taylor Swift song that you sang?!?
I always loved playing freeze tag as a kid. I guess these amigos love it so much that they play together in the water!
Kevin Cortez is a local ripper. Check out that removable diamond tail piece on his Shapeshifter!
Then Kevin’s friend answered by smacking the lip just as hard, if not harder. These two are in the process of making a film called “Surf Frio.” Check them out on Instagram.
Like Kiki’s crew, it’s time to get out there for the incoming push! Go enjoy your afternoon or have a good rest of the work week. Thank you all for checking out our report today. Adios amigos!!
RECENT REPORTS
Hey amigos! Welcome to Monday’s surf report from French Fries. The waves were pretty much firing when I rocked up to take pictures, but just like yesterday the wind went side-shore as soon as I put the camera away. At least some surfers caught the magic window.