The conditions were less than ideal when I arrived at the beach earlier. But as the swell started to roll in, people stopped to take notice. There were some serious rip currents out there with all the heavy water moving around (so please stay safe and use good judgment out there this weekend my friends).
I’m super excited to see how its going to look tomorrow, but by the looks of how much swell arrived late this afternoon, I think it’s going to be right on par with what they’re saying 6-8 feet + hopefully!
My friend Milano from across the way was charging these low tide drainers all afternoon. That is until he paid his taxes a little while later with a broken board. You gotta pay to play and Milano was scoring!
These fellas who were walking up and seeing exactly what I’m talking about.
The interval was up too, you could see the energy just by how thick the lips were on some of these.
For those who don’t froth or geek out as hard about surfing, there is always Toña time at the poolside bar, where you can just relax and cool off while you watch everyone else get barreled out of their minds.
This is Milano (pre-broken board) with only a hand full of guys out.
As the swell increased some more, I decided to hike over to another spot with my friend Colin to see what was going on there. It definitely looked bigger and gnarlier! He likes really big waves, and I really like shooting my friends surfing big waves, so it was a no brainer!
Always good to get your feet in the wax on a couple when surfing a new un-chartered surf spot.
Also a good idea to get a layout of the land, or both land and water in this case! You definitely don’t want to mix the two.
Colin feeling pretty comfortable for never surfing this place, although I’d be a little sketched out seeing that gnarly rock coming at me. This is why he’s a pro, and why I’m not gonna quit my day job and why I’ll stick with shooting him! haha
Ok, so when the wave breaks here, the barrel gets really hollow there. Lets see if we can dial this in a little more.
Not a bad first crack at this spot. Cudos Colin… you’re a madman!!
There’s this certain time in the late afternoon when people start to make their way over to the surf OR bar, looks like this group is 90% surfing.
and how can you blame them when you walk up and see this!?
Wait amigo, come back… it’s really starting to get good! Or maybe he’s completely surfed out?
Meanwhile back at the barrel fest!
It was thick and frothy
and a little airy.
Spiro has been getting shacked a lot this trip. Not a bad way to end your last full day here, right buddy? See ya out there tomorrow morning.
Making my way back over to civilization, I couldn’t help but want to pop off a few of these die-hard V-ball fanatics. I mean this game is serious business (but all in good fun of course) We’re really going to miss you Springfields. I hope those 8 weeks go by super quick!
Nikita going for the B L O C K ! ! ! hey Dan, when I do play when you come back, I want to be on her team ok!
Stay sandy my friends.. errr or is it stay thirsty, or get sandy, rinse and go get your thirsty taken care of from Junio at the Beach Club bar for happy hour after you play an intense game of Volleyball in this Nuts-O humidity. U guys r cray cray!
Well my friends, I need to go get some rest so I can try and deliver something really good for you all tomorrow. I’m hoping that the morning conditions are all time and the swell is going banana’s! We shall see… Adios for now~
RECENT REPORTS
Hey everyone! Welcome to Tuesday afternoon’s surf report from Colorados. It was likely the last day of large-ish surf for a while. It took patience and good positioning, but there were some great barrels made today.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
Hi everybody, the waves keep good during the 2016 seasson. We have good offshore wind and chocolate water in some surf spot. The rain of last night take out the onshore wind from yesterday. Check it out.