June 23rd, 2017

Somewhere in Nicaragua

The sun was out for the most part of the day and no rain, which I think we are happy to take a little break from; at least for a couple days I think.

Ripping was the key word for the day. Lots of good surfing talent out there at the playa.

There were still plenty of overhead sets coming in too.

Brett and his canvas. Paint away brother!

My good friend Jose was out surfing with his son Jose Jr. today. They both surf well and I would have to lay claim to the fact it has something to do with them living and surfing in Panama.

Just a hunch.

John got out there today trying out his new board with more volume. I talked with him briefly on the beach before he paddled out and he questioned whether the board was woking ok for him on this trip. I’m gonna have to say a big YES to ya Big John! Sick wave on your new board buddy!

Lots of people that I know are back or have been back a lot this June, like my good friend Barry here. With his good mate Mark watching from the shoulder.

The before said “ripping” for today had quite a bit of ladies out there as well. I have a lot of photos from todays session, but I can only put up so many shots (that and I don’t want to bore you to death with too much repetitive ripping) but lets just say the “windling it down” process is never an easy task when we have good days like these!

Roman, was for sure one of the stand out surfers out there, with plenty of moves like this.

and this.

I kinda wish I had shot from the water today. Although the current was pretty gnarly, so I’m glad I got all these shots from the land, but I can only imagine how sick it would have looked from the backs of the waves.

With all the spray, man-fans and big airs that were going down.

Straight on shots like this never really do much justice for how hollow some barrels really are. I saw Brett come flying out of this one, but even with the two dimensional feel, I know how round this one is by looking at the water. Must have been a gem view for the other people down the line.

You have learn to pop-up before you can shred… surfing rule number 683,723. That’s really the beauty of surfing though, is that we have ALL started here, like this little mini charger in the making. Not a single person on the planet just hopped on a surfboard and ripped ever. Hence, why surfing is and should always remain a humbling experience.

But being a little person helps a lot since your learning curve is a lot shorter the younger you start. Like my little buddy Jose here. Ripping on a well overhead wave today.

When you think about it… we’re all groms when it comes down to it. Just sometimes we’re really big groms.

Speaking of friends making it back this month. Good to see barrel and GIANT fish slayer, Joel out in the lineup. Welcome back down amigo!

Dario and I joked today (since the crowd was a little thick) about the brighter your attire, the easier it is to spot you for a shot. Dario was my waldo today.

I’m so happy I got this wave of Josee’s. This was a macker. She’s been wanting a big wave shot for sometime now, and I’m always happy to deliver. Next one’s gonna be of just the tip of your board though Jo Jo, because you’re gonna be so deep inside that thing! Keep up the good work out there chica!

You ever look at a surf pic and think, well, I’m not sure how I would caption this… so I’ll just let the picture speak for itself. mmmhmm.

It was a long day out there in the good old sun and fun waves. Feeling a bit drained, kinda like Roman. Ya see what I did there??

Drained, noodle armed, crampy legs, just a few of the descriptive words I heard used today from all the surfing that went down. You know what that means.. rest up because its more than likely going to be like groundhogs day mañana. So ice them battle wounds, drink a cold Toña, and get plenty of rest so we can go and do it all over again come sunrise. Peace out rippers!!