We definitely still have some swell in the water. Maybe not as big as yesterday, but I’d say there were some good size sets still coming though every now and then.
Kinda like this macker here!
Carlitos taking a steep drop!! He had a really good session out here yesterday, which is why we chose to come up and see if we could score it all over again today. Although yesterday seemed to be the better of the two days of the swell… I doubt anyone could go home bummed especially when you see waves like this.
Manny was out there slaying some big ones like always. Was bummed to see he had to end his session short when it looked like maybe his board had a little collision with the reef or something? Wait til the 20th buddy! Gonna be even bigger (maybe) if this next swell doesn’t get downgraded.
Here’s a little something to keep you stoked until that next juicy swell amigo!
Big drops, big props. Petty much everyone who surfs this spot, not too many people do, but the ones who take on this wave all surf it well.
Big wave surfers IMHO are a very unique kind of humans. Usually very mellow and have an incredible amount of patience with taking their time with a lot of things in and out of the water. Be it listening, talking or sharing.
They’re just all around cool people!
So this is the swell on the decline. Got a bit sketchy on that inside section. Lots of boils… and you know what lies beneath those!
P-Pass Parker, I gave him the new (one-time) nickname tonight.
This is why! He was killing the rights at this dominate left all afternoon.
The takeoffs here you have to deal with a lot of wind and spray in your face, loud cracking heaving lips detonating right beside you, oh and then there’s those boils I mentioned all over the place that you’re looking straight down onto. Sounds fairly easy right? Luke here drowns out all the above so he can try and get into this thing peacefully.
Art imitating life, or life imitating art. Either way, that’s one really cool looking lip!
There were some micro insiders, compared to what the outside was offering up.
Like this here! How do you prefer your Lips? Thick and full bodied with attitude, or soft and forgiving? This one is mighty aggressive and doesn’t take NO for an answer!
Just a handful of you and your amigos out with some residual swell still in the water… the suns decides to come out for just a little peek right before she needs to dip back into the sea for the day. What else could you ask for in a good days worth of surfing?
Lets cross our fingers that our next big swell working it’s way here across the South Pacific brings us more of this, very soon!
Until then.. Enjoy! Enjoy all that we have, including water! It’s our life. Soak it up, play in it, refresh yourself with it and always remember to share it whenever and with whoever you can! See ya’ll back here for the miércoles report with P-pass Parker! Dale Pues amigos ~
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FROM THE ARCHIVES
Hola mis amigos. I check the wave in the early morning to see how was working and I see this peak breaking and only seven surfers were out. The morning was cloudy and was raining, so probably the people were sleeping waiting for the low tide because the waves are more hole. Check the few..