August 12th, 2017

Somewhere in Nicaragua

I wanted to wait to see if we had a little more swell in the water since it wasn’t too big all day and lucky for me, we had some nice sets rolling through this late afternoon.

With it though, came all the surfers here who have been dying for some juicy waves the last couple of days. Seth here getting one of the set waves at the river mouth left. Watch out for all them shoulder hopers Seth!

This dude was ripping all afternoon. He’s a pretty big guy, which might have something to do with why I didn’t see anyone trying to jump in on any of his waves for a party wave?!? haha

Chocoyo, always all smiles… because he catches lots of waves!

The peaks left and right of me were going off pretty much until sunset time. I felt like was shooting a ping pong match.

We had an eclectic group out there too.. I’ll explain more about that a little later in the story. But here’s a ripper SUP’er or would it be a SUP’er who rips? Either way, he was killing on on that magic carpet ride!

Like I said in the get go… Slash-Fest Saturday!

People be hungry for some waves!

We had quite a few LB’ers out logging some time as well. This guys was stoked on the waves here in Nica-land!

Some cool SB’ish-Fish looking things too. This guy was flying down the line on so many waves.

With all the talented and hungry people out in the line-up today, Cesar had to make sure he made his mark early on in his 4:20 lunch surf break. If you showed any signs of weak surfing out there today, you were going be left with only the crummy leftovers. Good thing he’s a regular out here and knows how to position himself well out there.

This kid’s froth level was well over 10. Look at that stoked face! I can tell he’s in surfing heaven, surfing the waves here this time of year.

So earlier I mentioned we had quite the eclectic group out there. Lucky for me, I was out swimming with some local, and non-local legends. Here Tony Roberts (AKA – TR) displays his talent opposite side of the lens with his 9’ 1” LB and super rad custom signature named single fin on the back-end. Cruising right on by me with all the style and steeze of teenager frothing out like they would any day.

Next up we have Mr. Buzzy Kerbox. Although he’s not from here, I felt pretty privileged and graced by his presence in out in the lineup.

For those if you who don’t know or are familiar with him, lets just say he’s one of the guys on the very short list of modern big wave surfing and pioneering.  Some of his surfing buddy’s consist of guys like Laird Hamilton, Dave Kalama, and Darrick Doerner to name a few. Ironically in this image it justgoes to show, you can have fun on 3 feet waves or 60 foot waves. I’m guessing he prefers the latter. I’m hoping we get some nice big waves for him to surf here in Nica this coming Mon/Tues!

Señor Tom Eberly was out there styling on his LB as well.

Tom’s a local legend who shaped many many boards for a lot of the would be up and coming surfing from SJDS and surrounding areas in Nicaragua back when surfing here wasn’t really too big of a thing then.

He’s happily living here in Hacienda Iguana with his awesome family now and its always a good chat when you sit and talk story with Tom if you have the time. His surfing life prior to Nicaragua is pretty incredible as well. The guys a legend!

There were a few “bigger” (I don’t know if I will say front-runners yet) sets coming in, but we’ll have to wait and see how things look tomorrow morning.

Needless to say, there were some missed opportunities for some barrels (it’s ok, it happens to the best of us).

And there were some opportunities taken and rewarded. By the looks of the surf reports, this guy might be standing tall in his next good barrel (we hope!).

Look – a rainbow! Why did I shoot it. Because there’s no such things as unicorns, people!!!

That very same rainbows other side to it’s bend actually came through shortly after this shot and some of the rain in the distance cleared. So in essence, this guy just missed finding the lucky pot of gold at the end, OR DID HE?

I thought I saw everything out there this afternoon, until I saw this guy out there having the time of his life on (what would be the ultimate end of my eclectic quiver scenario of a story for today). This guy single handedly brought todays surfing to the next level of FUN in the lineup pulling movies like this; taking off fins backwards, sitting doing the cockroach, and even doing hand stands (which I tried my best to capture, didn’t work out) BUT the moral of the story here is, surfing is made to be FUN! Get out there and have some fun!!

That’s it mi amigos. Fun, fun, fun, in the sun. Lets hope tomorrow we do see some of those “frontrunners” and I want to say thanks for popping on over to peek at some of my pics from Nica-Sun-Fun-Land today! !Buenas noches y dulces sueños de olas, te veré de nuevo mañana!