June 9th, 2019
Somewhere in Nicaragua
Happy Sunday and what a FUN DAY it’s been folks! Remember what I said last thing in yesterdays surf report about hoping to have a redemption session today…. well, we sure got it!!! And it was EXTRA LARGE too!!!!
Walking up to the beach this morning around 7am and high tide and this was the first thing I saw. What a glorious sight right??
It was big….
Really Big!!!
The winds, the tide, this new pumping swell had everything alighted perfectly this morning.
Just ask this unknown dawn patrol charger tucking under this gaper!
Disappearing act(s). There was a lot of this today for sure!
Including the coming out part.
When we get bigger swells, like today, we tend to see surf spots that you don’t normally see. Any takers?
Or you can stay over at this mighty fine beach break where it’s a bit more safe. hehe! (Not today!)
Alex now calls the East coast his home, but groomed his big wave riding skills at the infamous “Wedge” in Southern CA. It’s no wonder why he looked so comfortable out there today. (** Ed note – What you don’t see in this image of the sequence is the 6 foot air drop he made on this take off and then getting axed by the lip which completely ate one of his fins, so if you see a black and yellow fin on the beach please let me or one of the nice people at the beach club know so I can get it back to Alex!!!) Gracias 🙂
Look who else made it out…. Hot Carl!!! But of course anytime the buoys start boinging around in the southern Pacific, you can be sure to see him out there, or more likely at one of the outer reefs!
His amigo, my amigo, heck everyone’s amigo… Dr. Gray doing his surgical practitioning for the season.
Hey Gray, epic session today eh buddy! Bet you’re stoked out of your mind with some of those insane barrels (which were all In & Out’s btw) today.
Another one, that was actually in the same set as the previous ones as Gray’s wave. It was pulsing and super heavy out there.
Third wave of the set and it wouldn’t STOP!!! It actually got better each wave…
Last wave of that set and you can see here all that water that was built up form the previous 3 or 4 waves and the high tide backwash meant some pretty hairball terrain for this surfer… but he still managed to pull it off!!!
This was right about when my camera battery decided to force quit my epic shooting experience…. which is why I’m frantically trying to get this report up ASAP, because after I hit send on this last sentence, I’m heading back down…. I hear it’s still firing and sets are rolling all the way in from the Colorados indicator half a mile out to sea. I’ll see ya down there!!!! Be safe everyone!!! Cheers ~Remember, even if you didn’t make the highlights you can always look at the link here for all theDaily Surf Shotsfrom each day, there might be a good chance you’re in there!AND don’t forget to follow us and always check out our current happenings on our daily Instagram stories hereNSRor my photography hereNica Surf Shots
RECENT REPORTS
Hey amigos! Welcome to Monday evening’s surf report from Colorados. It wasn’t as big as I was expecting, but there was still some push.
Hey everyone! Welcome to Sunday evening’s surf report from Panga Drops / French Fries. It was very clean, but smaller than yesterday which caught me off-guard. There were still some pretty waves for the handful of surfers that were out.
Hey amigos! Welcome to Saturday evening’s surf report from French Fries and Panga Drops. The surf was surprisingly bigger today. I guess it’s the front runners of the coming swell. Kenny sending it on a head-high set.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
Hola weekend warriors! Today we had some barrielicious, super fun waves out front. Don’t believe me… click that read more button and I’ll show you!
Hola surf people and welcome to the Friday Surf Report!! So speaking of surf, it was a complete & beautiful disaster out there today. We had full on storm surf with onshore madness combined with Hawaiian like amazing crystal clear blue water as the surf raged on, while only a few diehards put their skills to..
Hello and good day everybody. The onshore wind was in the morning and exchange again to offshore in the afternoon. the waves still small, but fun. Check what the surfer make in the waves today.