Like Marcos here, who’s probably surfing right there on his lunch break. Although I am highly positive that his lunch brake – or heck we can just call it any one of his daily breaks, because whenever the waves turn on, he is one of the very few people who have this view as his office. Like I said…. JUMP!!!
I was actually surprised to see the bump in swell from earlier this morning when I checked it at dead low and it looked 1-2 feet. Rob giving us a nice size and wave ref for comparison.
It was just the real PD’s loc’s out today. Ya, there were a few missing, but the only ones out were some of the the regs who really, really know, surf or live right in front of this wave. Like Jack here. Yeah buddy! Nice to see you out there beating the offshores!
I still have yet to meet this guy, but I still affectionately like to call him Riddick (cause he looks like Vin Diesel). Getting after a chunky looking late drop in and a super windy blown section to get around. Get it Dude!
How sick is this shack Seth’s about to get covered up by on this Panga’s right. He got fully covered and disappeared and then came out way down the line. I thought he didn’t make it, but after I saw him come out way down the beach, I knew he made it and what a sick shot it would have been from the other angle! Sick one amigo!
Well, like I said, it was a stealthy and quick one. Literally I got there and the guys were in and out within half an hour or so. All that empty free lineup left all for Marcos because when he doesn’t have to come in until he’s filled his break belly full of enough waves to be full until same time mañana!
Well, it is Friday, but there’s still work to be done before the weekend. People actually do work here believe it or not. Come on Max, let’s go get some quick grinds downtown and hammer out some property work before the traditional family sunset meetup! Aloha ~
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Happy Hump Day everyone! Panga Drops is still the place to go these days, check it out!