I had gotten a message that the waves were starting to turn on… this wasn’t the call in guy, but you can tell this dude knew it was turning on very much so!
There’s just something that uniquely draws about 99.9% of all surfers to just around the head high range of barrels.
They’re fun for one thing, but they’re also not too crazy to make you work out there like your life depends on it.
Thus is the reason, I believe that the Kelly Slater ranch wave size was very specifically chosen for its size.
Haha, I could be completely wrong and sound like a total kook with that theory, but then again, what do you think about when you see waves of this size, shape and hollowness??
Although it does look a little on the small side today, we are supposed to be getting some new bigger swell here soon!
Thad’s stoked because he and his amigos just got in and timed their little strike mission perfectly for next weeks swell!
Bigger (in terms of waves) for John = A greater factor of fun and a lot less beach checks from sunup to sundown for him and the small but dedicated super dawn patrol crew.
Derek with his rail game on point today. Darn, I must say the photos really do give todays session a tad bit more allure than how good it actually was…..
But I don’t photoshop any of my photos (besides a little color correction) so you know there were some really fun little nuggets out there for the hour that I was shooting.
Next week and this same take off spot and shot will look similar but just add a few feet to it….. many feet to it, but it’ll still look super sick and FUN!
Little trivia factoid. John Gillem used to be a real “Head & Shoulders” shampoo model back in the day! Jaja – if you got that joke, thanks! lol
Time to get the feet in the wax and ready for some bigger stuff hopefully coming to our shores very soon!!!
Might as well practice the pig-dogging position while its small too…. it’ll come in handy when it get’s well overhead!
Dario doing a little “pipe-cleaning” before his evento de canto esta noche!
Go ahead and cue Thin Lizzy’s “The Boys are Back in Town” song now, if you’re old enough to remember that epic jam of a song…… perfect for my amigos who just so happen to be back in town!!! Yewwwwww boys ~
RECENT REPORTS
Hey everyone! Welcome to Wednesday’s surf report from Colorados. The waves were better by all measurable metrics today. It was still walled up and slow, but there were definitely some 10 pointers to be had.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
Welcome back to the daily surf report from Nica-Land. Woke up early this morning to get the dawn patrol session, looked toward Panga then looked toward Colorado..