Morning beauty and all it’s glory!
Well, there were a little lully moment out there while waiting for the that tide to fill in. But a few diehards up and at it early.
If you’re not a coffee drinker, this should suffice as plenty of salty caffeine to get the blood pumping.
Actually that last right was one of the very few that went by that not only looked spectacular in the AM light but actually looked decent enough to catch and ride. Today was all about them lefts.
Like this left that when they came you had better be prepared to sack up ad go!
This guy sure did, and he got super rewarded!!!
Still going!
The peaks weren’t really even peaks. They were like big giant walls with gnarly end sections that if you caught in just in the right place, you could hopefully nab that perfect spot on these shifty walls that would usually pay off with continued gnarly barrel sections that would run for days.
Just outside the 7 o’clock bus…. run buddy you can make it!
The pulled back view kind a shows or gives a better example of how I was describing how sitting in the very middle wasn’t really going to work too well for you out there today, unless you like a gigantic un-makable closeout section.
However, this could and very much looks very similar to a wave on the North Shore of Oahu, the only thing missing is a reef.
Oh…. yeah and about 150 other guys out there in the lineup.
This place (swell) has been like this for days on end now.
The only that’s come to an end is the sick end section of each barrel.
And then another set comes and it’s rinse and repeat, only this hombre scored what I saw what was the only right that I caught this morning out of all the lefts ridden out there today.
Outside indictor giving everyone their paddle outside and get ready and be in position properly heads up.
Barry paddled SUPER deep as he was the one furthest out when that outside indicator reared it’s gnarly feathering head.
Beast mode and OR beast of a wave….. YES! Barry the Beast Master!
There was a lot of up and down top to bottom carving on this super sized set wave.
It gave him a little sweet cover up before letting him off the roller coaster practically right onto the sand.
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