With the last swell that came, and if you read every report during that swell you saw how well prepared and quickly everyone here got reacquainted with this wave and what it’s known for.
If you like barrels, this is the spot.
And today there were many!!!
The only thing that was different today from the entire last swell was the angle and where the waves were breaking and almost every wave was a right instead of a left like the last swell.
It was reefer madness down at PD’s.
Bigger than PC’s for sure but about 80% less the people.
Liam on a low tide sandy churned up drainer.
We could almost go with the “Mystery Barrel Surfer” on this one…. but I’m more curious who’s behind curtain number 2???? haha
Being that it was super low tide, the waves were breaking oddly really close to the shoreline; thus making the paddle back out almost walkable back out to the lineup.
Ohhhhhhh how bout that surfing brotherly love. Hobgoods, Iron’s, Slaters, Fletchers, Gudauskas’s, the list goes on… any of those surfing families a favorite of yours?
If you picked the Fletchers, well here’s a nice example of how their family roots contributed hugely to surfing (especially above the lip).
The pose, the positioning, even the water color, looks like it could be a young Kelly Slater somewhere in Barbados back when he was cutting his teeth at soup bowls.
If a wave were to exemplify Ali’s most historical quote, “Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee”, I think this would be the sting like a bee part! OUCH!!
Still some little wait times for those much bigger sets….
But perfecting your surfing foundation (as you all know – or should know) surfing isn’t ever just about getting “Super Shacked”. Your style ALWAYS comes first.
But then, YES, once you have that down….. feel free to do exactly what Kai is going to do, which is show you how to perfectly get “Shacked” in these last few frames of todays surf report.
Surfing foundation or not, you still gotta have a good set of huevos to decide which side of the coin you wish to ride this wild ride.
Kai, obviously is no stranger to taking the inside track.
It’s the dance and the know-how that get’s you from take off to the light at the end of the tunnel.
Even if the tunnel is still super dark and the light is inevitably going to close down on your dreams of making your millionth barrel.
RECENT REPORTS
Hey amigos! Welcome to Thursday’s surf report from Colorados. I saw the waves turn on and off about 7 separate times today. The conditions were in constant flux. It just so happened to be that the best window of the day was when I took pictures around 1:00pm.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
Welcome back to Nica-Land for this Thursday’s surf report, it wasn’t big today but it was nice and clean.