Talking about eating the rocks. This is not a good place to be, specifically at this break and this particular take off spot Dario’s in and about see whether or not, there are any underwater boulders right where he’s headed, or he lucked out and missed them all together.
Looks like he and his board came out unscathed. Now he just has to get back out to the lineup while taking a few of the in be-tweeners on the head.
Colin was sitting about as deep as you want to be at this peak. Any further over and you’re sure to end up on the base of the cliff slab or giant rocks at the base of this behemoth cliff.
His long lasting history with these waves allows him to surf almost every single wave with super good working knowledge of each of their dynamics, especially all along the southern coastline and all the breaks.
He knows every single nook and cranny of this coast.
But that’s because he’s lived here (or better yet) surfed this place, pretty much longer than anyone residing in Hacienda Iguana. I want say it was in the very early 2000’s, I’ll have to ask him again what year it was again when he first made this his second home.
But either way, that’s a a lot of years to get to know a complete countries Pacific Ocean’s coastline.
The Reef was showing not only its teeth today, but its thunderous surf could be felt and heard easily by all on the beach.
Dario also taking off in that super deep pocket. What you don’t see if how gnarly it is behind that cliff there. One mess up on your take off and you could be enjoying some alone time with a bunch of lobsters.
Like I said, nobody got hurt or hit any rocks today, but that line that ropes in off this right hand point break can be super fun and long too; but to think today wasn’t even one of the better of the really good days out there out of the 8 years I’ve lived here.
Pumping right hand point break with only two dudes out. Tell me again where your closest right hand point break is to where you live and surf and how often do you see it with waves very well way overhead and only 2 guys out. Exactly!
Duck diving this wave mid face is about the smartest thing you can do on this wave if you can time it right. going deep (which you would need to do pretty much so you’re not sucked back over the falls) also means you’re more than likely going to run right into one of those nose of your board eating boulders. No bueno for that, but nice duck dive Dario!
Tempting…. oh so tempting, but this wave loves to go square right about where Colin’s going over… right there. I wish I had the angle from the beach, so you can see how mutantly square this thing throws out when the wave jacks up on that rock shelf.
This is more how it looks when there’s a nice comfy sand beach bottom. Well, that can hurt too if you hit it wrong. There are a few people here who can attest to that!
The ocean had a lot of cleanup for Alberto today. He and his “escoba” were plenty busy out there sweeping up lots of water and the cleanup sets were NO JOKE at Pangas today!!!!
The water, or waves rather were a bit funky all day. Not that clean and quite a bit of chop and warble as you can see here. If it were clean and perfectly offshore and or semi glassy with todays size…. man it would have been one for the record books just alone with the size.
Looks fun…. ya, let’s go surfing!! Well you better time your paddle out pretty good.
It’s the reverse red headed step brother of Manzanillo, really. But for the regular footers!
Here’s that take off spot I was telling you about that will launch you violently right up onto a giant rock slab below the cliff of “The Dogs”. But don’t be fooled, its a super fun wave and only a handful of people (including myself) really know what lurks down in the deep dark crevices and caves below this beautiful novelty wave! Here’s to the next session out there….. Cheers !~Remember, even if you didn’t make the highlights you can always look at the link here for all theDaily Surf Shotsfrom each day, there might be a good chance you’re in there! AND don’t forget to follow us and always check out our current happenings on our daily Instagram stories hereNSRor my photography hereNica Surf Shots
RECENT REPORTS
Hey amigos! Welcome to Tuesday evening’s surf report from Colorados. The swell was bigger and stronger today, but it was very slow between the sets. I think the lack of a secondary swell combined with the sandbars not being in perfect shape made for long waits.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
Welcome back to yet another gorgeous day in Nicaragua. Gonna be nice when the world opens back up and you can join us down here for some much needed exercise and sun.