September 28th, 2022

Somewhere in Nicaragua

Well for starters, there were people surfing, like Carlitos here smashing this thick closeout section.

There were even some throaty (not prefect) but still potentially hollowness to some of the waves roping in today.

It was still onshore today, actually it was onshore but coming straight from the north. Which is rare, but what’s even more rare is seeing local barrel water doggy, Riley not walking, but getting out there with a good jog, means there were waves worth making the effort to get out there and in it as quickly as possible.

Swell in the water…. Oh yah! If it were offshore today, I think it would have been ON, Firing, Epic, pretty much a super solid day of perfect waves!!!!

Here’s your daily wave-size-O-meter (for reference).

Haha – but not to laugh, but this dude did the correct and I think only thing possible, which is what you should do when you’re headed straight towards a wave that’s eating itself.

Cleanest lookin’ wave I’ve seen for a while.  Got a little mini Indo Ulu look to it eh?

Ohhhh, ya, whirling winds, mixed up super confused ocean. But a surfer knows when the apparent potential barrel is right down the line, you take it when you can! Nice one for this unknown dude!

I’m pretty sure we all know what Josh was listing to for his pre-surf, rock-out jam before he paddled out this morning…. I’ll give you a hint…. it’s one of Tom Petty’s classics (with a girl skating a halfpipe!)

For technical riding purposes (just scroll through and you’ll get exactly what I’m talking about) but check out Carlos with the barrel sequence / wave of the day!!!

It takes someone with a lot wave and hour time put in to pull into something like this.

But to ride all that funk and foam ball crumbling Niagara falls water just trying it’s best to buck you off that wave…. Carlos (aka Houdini) pulling the rabbit out….. buuuut….

Naaaaah, never, like the saying goes, if you come out you weren’t deep enough,

If don’t make it you were too deep. Or for most, you just gotta work on that tube riding perfection still.

So shoots, maybe Carlos was too deep, because he almost ALWAYS makes any barrel he pulls into!

HAAAAAAA – and BOOOOOM, just like that! Go ahead and zoom in and look at that freaking SMILE!!!! I think he’s even blown away (after being blown out of course) that he just bagged one crazy, certainly only a handful of people who could have navigated that NUTSO, but SUPER DUPER SICK double barrel mayhem of a wave. Saludos Carlitos!!!!! You’re a super freak you know that!!! Jaja ~

Storm away all you want La Niña (which in fact while I write this it’s already begun – the dark grey cloudy sky that is now aquatically nourishing the earth with it’s fresh water from the sky gods. Good time to be inside by now and so so sooooo stoked I was finally able to get some killer shots for you all today! Hope you enjoyed as much as I did! B will B back again tomorrow….. hopefully it’ll be another good day! ~Remember, even if you didn’t make the highlights you can always look at the link here for all theDaily Surf Shotsfrom each day, there might be a good chance you’re in there!AND don’t forget to follow us and always check out our current happenings on our daily Instagram stories hereNSRor my photography hereNica Surf Shots