October 6th, 2022

Somewhere in Nicaragua

I’ve had the good fortune to run into yet another amazing group of friends, very special people I can now add to my going list of incredible people whom have not too long ago discovered the magical land of Nicaragua all the way across the globe from Israel. Here תומר  (in Hebrew) or better know in English as Tomer, being one of the early birds to get the worm!

Mixing it up with some morning yoga, combined with some soul arching early morning cutback style!

This mornings light was or I should say is ALWAYS the most epic looking into the right’s, like here (sin I’m shooing from the opposite and completely wrong direction – I can explain later) but the point is the light or i should say looking into the light (which is usually a no-no) was spectacularly brilliant this morning.

Which is almost always not the best idea. Sorta like what this guys facing in the particular moment, but sometimes it’s good to go against the grain!

The outcome could have been WAAAAY worse had he not doggy door’d that HUG A$$ closeout section, but it give a pretty good perspective to the size of swell we still have out there.

Another one of my buddies from Israel, גל aka Gal , putting in some nice tube time before even the meal lades were at the house starting to make their breakfast.

One of the other crew, אסא (aka) Asa fortunately was able to get in one more session before he had to depart this morning.

But not before getting his last shred on and pretty hard too I might add!!!

The tide was pretty drained out at first light, which I don’t normally like to go shoot (unless it’s firing on all cylinders) but as you can see, the dawn patrol session started the day off with a ton of promise for what the day had in store for later once that water filled in, as you can see.

Same wave, same surfer you’re bound to see out here daily. Kai, in his fun zone!

Remember that earlier statement I was talking about all that mumbo jumbo about the right morning light versus the wrong morning light. Here’s the wrong way…. but sure as heck looks petty right to me (literally haha)!

Peak, peaks and more peaks, if you were even just standing trying to get the shots, the peaks were even messing with your mind without even being there in the lineup.

A lot of people always ask me just before paddling out (since I’m sometimes down there shooting before they get down there) “Hey, so where’s the “Spot” or where’s the best peak”. I usually have some unofficial answer like, “Well, ya know that peaks over thee is way bigger or better, but you have to wait a little longer for the bigger sets, however that peak up that way (usually where everyone is usually obviously sitting) is more consistent but as you can see a bit more crowded”.

Well, here’s an in-betweener peak that nobody even asked me about nor if they paddled out really would have even cared about as the playing field was about as open as it gets with days like today.

It was the close out sections that had people singing mid-flight, “Rocket Man” as the scathed by within inches of the death close outs that are common with the super low tide.

Not a single person that I saw walking down the beach had their eyes peeled anywhere else, except for the pumping waves that were GOING OFF right around (_) AM. sorry, just wanted to leave some wiggle room for my friends who covet the early bird sessions. Gotta keep a little mystery to the place, otherwise it’s just the same as where we all came from! 😉

So back to my earlier thing I was talking about “where is the best place to be” – well, first thing is, it’s a baht break not a reef break, so it’s shifty as Uncle Buck!

Secondly, if you find yourself in the right spot, you will be looking, well, pretty much like this dude. ..  who’s in an about as perfect barrel as you can imagine here, with no crowd, perfect offshores and me there to get YOU and that SHOT!!!!

You may have noticed Big John watching attentively in one of the shots a little but back (leashing up). John is and has ALWASY been a very fast learner.

Granted he has one of the best waves in all of the region of Latin America to practice his surfing skills.

But you still have to put in your time, perfect days or not. John’s one of the rare people in the circle of surfers here who’s not only one of the most humble ones in the small group, but he’s grown into the kind of man / surfer who could potentially reach Laird Hamilton levels/status if he ever chose to go down that rabbit hole. I think he’s got that potential!

I’m not sure if Gal has ever even been to Southern California, but my amigo, this would be one of their finest days (at best) I can say that because I am from CA born and raised and I’ve surfed almost the entire coast.

Trust me when I say, never waste a dime on that place unless you wanna see some silicone and be jammed up on the 405 for hours (depending on the time of day). Jajajaja

So, with the new OOTO October in effect and we’re only on day six of the month, we can ONLY hope that this magical month just keeps on giving! Let’s hit it again mañana, what’d ya say? SBS – Out ~Remember, even if you didn’t make the highlights you can always look at the link here for all theDaily Surf Shotsfrom each day, there might be a good chance you’re in there!AND don’t forget to follow us and always check out our current happenings on our daily Instagram stories hereNSRor my photography hereNica Surf Shots