May 27th, 2023

Somewhere in Nicaragua

Yeah… It was heavy out there. I paddled out between photo sessions this evening and even I got scared during one set that rolled through haha! Two set waves crumbled at our little chunk of reef which sits outside of Colorados’ lineup while I was stuck in the boneyard, so you better believe that I was scratching for my life to get outside before the set detonated on me!

Any takers? Any takers? No takers. The photos don’t do justice to the speed of these waves. When paddling to catch very thick waves, you must build-up sufficient momentum to outpace the swell line as it rushes toward the beach. If you are lacking in speed you will just get hung up at the top of the wave and enjoy the “over-the-falls” experience.

Speaking of getting hung up top… Even Colorados’ finest representatives (surf-wise), such as Jeison, are liable to error in conditions of consequence. Kudos for sending it on this one though.

This wave fully inverted on Jeison while he was taking the drop. It flipped his tail up, then his nose caught, which put Jeison in free-fall. Hey, he even managed to fall with style here though!

A few of the kids living here in Iguana enjoying some low-depth ocean time this afternoon. The kids growing up here can’t possibly know how advantageous their situation is haha. That being said, for kids and those of you here in Iguana less adept in the water please exercise extreme caution in the water tomorrow as the size of the surf is forecasted to pick up even more. You can’t tell from this photo, but when the surf gets massive here it is incredibly difficult to even stand stationary on one’s feet in waist deep water due to all the water rushing across the beach and inside. I think all surf lessons are going to be called “No Go” tomorrow haha.

Our amigo here taking a look and making the conservative decision to let this one slide. I tend to be quite harsh on the surfers featured in my reports, but you can see this guy would’ve been taking off under the lip with effectively zero speed. It’s hard to let waves go unridden with everyone watching you, but it’s a lot better to live to fight another battle, than to end up in an ambulance on the way to Vivian Pellas hospital.

There was lots of cloud-cover this evening which blurred my photos. Jeison won the heat today largely because he continued to send it on big sets and because he stayed active in the lineup. Locked and loaded in this blue tunnel.

Meanwhile up the beach… I saw some pretty mental ones roll through at Pangas this evening. When I was out surfing between photo sessions, I even saw a guy make a barrel out there.

To round-up today’s surf action, we have a nice frontside fin release from this gentleman. How cool is his board art and coloration?

Everyone at the beach seemed to be enjoying themselves this evening, and the dogs were no exception. These guys are Isla, Otto, and Enzo. Like the kids growing up here, I don’t think they have the slightest clue that they are living in doggy paradise (I’d say it’s a surfer’s and/or libertarian’s paradise here as well). The dogs here spend half of the day in play, running up and down the beach, and the rest of the day either sleeping or eating.

My neighbor Yuji keeping his dogs entertained with some fetch this evening. Yuji had an action packed day today, between assisting me with some lessons (in bombing whitewater walls) and having to swim all the way in from big Panga Drops due to a leash snap. Get some rest big fella that way we can pack some back-to-back tubes tomorrow! The same goes to you viewers! Don’t party too hard this weekend that way you can check back in for tomorrow’s surf report with B-Scott. The size of the swell is forecasted to be even larger, pretty biblical if you ask me, so tomorrow’s report will likely be worth a peep. Cheers guys and have a good one!