January 4th, 2018

PLAYA SANTANA

Etienne was having a blast today, he caught a bunch of waves like this one, fast-hollow little peaks great to calm the itchiness of not surfing that often, specially knowing that it’s going to be even smaller for a whole week starting tomorrow.

Some other locals decided to check the waves for a while before making it into the chill water. After a few minutes this kid shook the sand off his butt, turned around and left… I guess he wasn’t impressed.

For a moment the waves looked real good, wave after wave broke with a really good shape all the way to the (very close) sand.

“To Infinity and Beyond!!” This guy hit the Eject Button right on time!

Check out Mario again, passing the vertical line on his back side… sadly I had the sun right in front of me and couldn’t adjust the camera on time to have a better picture.

After a couple of bad photos (too much light) I went looking for a better angle and from here the waves looked way better.

And by “pure coincidence” I found my old friend Andrew having a cold Toña by himself and, as the good guy I am, I couldn´t let him drink all alone, people will think he is an alcoholic or even worse… a weirdo, so I joined him for one or two (or was it three?) beers while catching up on what he is doing now.

This photo of Etienne was taken directly from the table… with a few more beers I would probably call it a perfect barrel on that one. Almost though!

The beer was getting hot and the conversation was getting interesting so, I decided it was time to put down the camera and focus on what’s important in life… family and friends (and surf of course!).The next few days is going to be small(er) so, please, be patient, resist, hold strong there, I promise the waves will come back sooner than you know it (hopefully!). Cheers!!