I’ll start today’s surf action with some friends of mine who were receiving some surf coaching from John (my brother) and Yuji and Koji. Aaron was cruising solo without instruction today, and did a good job of grabbing a couple set waves during his first session on a hard longboard.
Breaker, the eldest of the three brothers receiving coaching, cruising on a clean right with some laid-back style.
Crew, the middle brother, looks a little disappointed with this wave’s speed as demonstrated by his body language haha! Style-wise we should get him shuffling up toward the nose to gain speed (after setting one’s line) as opposed to leaning forward.
Bondi, the youngest of the tres hermanos, doing a good job of standing way back on the board so that he can get more leverage, despite his small frame, over the tail so that he can steer the long-board.
John riding with Crew on the inside taking some notes.
Party wave! Bondi and Crew sharing a nice right with Breaker spectating on the inside. Oiii, Crew we gotta get you off those knees haha.
Breaker doing a good job of leading with his arms and vision on this left.
Woahooah Chicken Joe! Crew sizing up what may have been the biggest wave for the family today. Way to commit amigo!
Alrighty, back to Panga Drops for some more varied and experienced surfers. The mystery muscle man from the prior two reports was out wrecking havoc on the wave faces again today. This wave literally got ripped apart haha.
Luckily fella right here! This right far outside in front of Costa Mar was probably one of the better waves I saw this morning.
Rutci demonstrating some excellent technique on this right. If you look closely you can see how she immediately began to compress lower at her knees after taking off, and she is now beginning to unleash her coiled up tension as well as using her trailing hand as a pivot point.
An unknown SUPer threading the mid-line of the face on a nice left.
It was a bit inconsistent at French Fries today, but as you can see here they were good when they came through and there was nobody sitting there! Luckily we had plenty of action for today’s report, so hopefully we get some more quality content mañana. That being said, tomorrow looks like it’s going to be fairly windy so my expectations aren’t too high. Take it easy guys and see you tomorrow.
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FROM THE ARCHIVES
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