Panga was looking super good today, there were a lot of fat hard-to-catch A-frames like this one.
The lefts were breaking soft and a longboard was the right choice.
The rights had a little more push, a little more vertical.
Enough verticality to get most of the board out of the water on a critical turn.
The South bowl was breaking really good too, A-framing really nice.
And only one girl at the South bowl enjoying the lefts.
The main peak was the spot to be of course.
One of the Unspoken Rules in surfing is “Never take the first wave of the set”… and this is why:
The first wave of the set is rarely the best wave, and if you catch the first wave and wipe out, you will have to survive the entire set.
And probably the worst… to watch somebody else surfing the wave of the day right after you wipeout on the first wave of the set.
On the inside you could find also great little walls and have a great ride, Phi Lou can testify for that.
It was an amazing day of surfing at Panga Drops, specially because it’s only January! Have a great day!