Today is my first day back after a couple days of R&R. It’s not too often I get 3 days back to back off, but Baldo was kind enough to swap with me one his days, so it worked out pretty good for a little rejuvenation.
Much like life itself, surfing is all about timing. You can time a surf trip perfectly and score the best waves of your life, and you can also get skunked. We as surfers (if traveled enough) have experienced both sides of this coin.
We as surf reporters also experience this on a daily basis, for it up to us to try and bring you the goods every single day.
We’re at the mercy of Mother Nature obviously, but timing a days good swell can also be like a roll of the dice in a crap shoot.
We have tides to depend on, wind sensitivity (especially here for us with it being too offshore sometimes) and since we rock a pretty cool “SURF” report, we try and time it when people our out surfing as opposed to a completely empty lineup (which in theory is THE BEST)…
But seeing some surfing is the main reason you fine folks check in with us daily. Right?
I must have checked the waves at least 3 or 4 times throughout the day, starting as early as 7Am.
There is a certain sense of anxiety that does come with gambling that the best waves will be at the last, but best light of the day.
But in my experience in doing the report now for almost 2 years. The afternoon sessions seem to usually have the most surfers (historically for me in shooting).
That being said, I have to say the waves were pumping in the morning but not many people out and the lolls in between the really nice big sets were about 30 min.
But those said sets had maybe 6-10 waves in the sets and they were really good size!
By time I checked around noon (midday) the wind had really picked up and nobody was really out surfing.
So that’s when I usually do my 3-3:30 PM check and like most days, there were more people out.
But the waves seemed to have diminish a little, which could very well be that the tide was going out and below the medium mark.
The winds were still howling, pretty much side shore by now and the texture wasn’t good at all.
So the moral of my little story is…. maybe I will be shooting first thing tomorrow instead?? But maybe it will be GOING OFF in the late afternoon (like it was the last few days when I was off – from what I had heard). Either way, we have good days and we have not so good days… but we always strive to get you the best surf shots and report from each and every day; with our dice in one hand and our camera in the other! See ya out there mañana hopefully! Lets do this ~
RECENT REPORTS
Hey everyone! Welcome to Tuesday’s surf report from Panga Drops. The waves were really fun this morning. This week should be the best we’ve had in some time.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
Hola and Happy TGIF everyone! Welcome to the start of what’s looking be a pretty good weekend so far. Lets go play!