Esteban (also on the same wave in the previous photo) giving us a nice size reference to the size of swell out there today.

He loves surfing this wave and has been living down here for a really long time. Matter of fact he built his home up high in the bluffs in Rancho Santana back when this place had barely any homes along the entire Emerald Coastline.

And this is a great example of the typical take off under the lip at this wave looks like. Ya the rest of the wave is pretty easy, but if you’ve never had the breaking part of this wave on your back as you’re trying to take off, then you’re not sitting deep enough.