OK, well when I first got down there, since I opted for the afternoon session to shoot today, it was very similar to the morning….. long lully waits however, the sets looked like they had grown in size throughout the day.
There was a lot of of that churned up whitewater around the entire playing field of Panga’s, so I knew a really good set had just come steamrolling though.
So these were some of the little inbetweener’s while I set up shop and patiently waited for what I knew was coming from way out there in the far far distance.
Meanwhile, other surfers were geared up and getting make the paddle out, while it was semi mellow and actually a pretty easy paddle out (being that the swell interval was so big).
Sit too far outside you can paddle your arse off and still not get in. Sit too far in and you’ll find yourself taking off with the lip. This wave loves to mess with your mind. Lucas, wishing he had paddled out just a little further on this one. Oh ya, this is one of those front runners of the sets. And believe me….. he sets were solid once they came through!
Hahahaha I just love Kenny’s grin in this photo. This is what he and all the other surfers here really really love. The big juicy days!
It was almost the Emi show out there today. Dude was slaying a spraying and caching so many waves…. thanks hermano! That’s why I’m getting the report up late today,. so many sequences of you Jajajaja!!!!
Dr. Stephen Hunt on a nice one!!! I owe this man a huge heap of gratitude, it’s pretty much because of him, I still have my foot, or toes at least. Ok, its a long story, but remind me to tell you about it later….. there’s lots more sets coming out the back!!!
If I could place music over my photo montages for you….. you all know which song I’m thinking for this one….? “Should I stay or should I go now?” LOL
With waves that were like this pretty much all day. I little rabbit (ok, it wasn’t a rabbit, but it was my neighbor, and he said the went out there around last light and said it got REALLY BIG, like….. A LOT BIGGER!!!!
So that means this swell is supposed to peak mañana!! So, you all know… if you’ve been out there enjoying this nice rising swell over the last day or two already…. remember to hydrate, try and get some good rest and always, always, always stretch and loosen them muscles back up for your next surf. If could or it SHOULD…. NO IT WILL BE the biggest swell we will be seeing for the first part of 2021! Are you guys as excited as I am?????
Grant laying down some deep cuts on a really big open face with A LOT of real-estate. That’s a pretty big carve if you know your way around these faces! Just sayin’!
Party WAVE!!!! Here ya go! You like to see how much room you have to move around and do your thang on one of these waves. Here’s one wave with 3 guys spaced pretty far apart (it was planned that way for COVID), but in all seriousness, check out how much caring space this wave haas when it’s proper and BIG!
Emi caught in the middle of quite the predicament….. hmmm what to do?????
Yaaaa thatta boy buddy!!!! You just schooled that 6 good closeout section with some gnarly juevos!!!!!! Jajajaja
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FROM THE ARCHIVES
Hola amigos! Welcome to the Saturday surf report. We had some super strong winds out there today. Add in a few degrees dipping in temperature and it was quite the chili day here in the land of normally tropical nice and hot out there. Grab your beer goggles and lets jump in!