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At the time I was shooting, there was a consistent number of just 3 people out in the lineup the entire time. When Chocoyo came (at that time) it was just 1. So he made Number 2!
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And he made his way quickly out to the lineup so he could get in some big turns like this!
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My buddy Moritz from Costa Rica made his way out as well. Here he is getting ready to do battle in the freezing water.
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And take on some of the sets that looked like this.
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How often does your home break look like this with no-one out???
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It was nice to see Colorados starting to wake up a little bit today.
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There were a few people who tried their hand down that way. Who knows, maybe I’ll have to start out there mañana to see how it’s looking for the report??
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Definitely not makable, BUT how fun would that thing be with a sponge or hand plane??
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The winds have been relentless. Thus making the water very cold (which is common this time of year here).
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I have to give Elvin some pretty good credit for trying to punt in these crazy offshore’s. mira a tu amigo de la cabeza!!
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If you’re not careful, you can easily get blown away yourself as well!
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Ahhhhh… I’ve got my eyes set on something in this picture VERY VERY soon!!! (I’ll give you a hint it’s in the far background and it has the letters C & R in the countries name!)
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This hombre obviously has his sights set on something much more different and much more close to home!
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Chocoyo was giving these lefts a good work over today. Check out how steezy that turn is, with the hair all flared out and the wind coming off the face. Sick one Hermano!
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Chocoyo ON FIRE!!! Only a few dudes out, no wonder why his style seems to progress regularly!
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Hey if you’re here in the neighborhood, it would be cool to stop by and check out the fun party going down tomorrow at Casa Madera’s.Come check out and Groove to Steve and the band; play a positive vibration quiz, taste delicious food from Ananas and Casa Maderas, and enjoy a whole new experience. They’ll be serving up some delicious Fajitas and Lechon with some really good drinks!!
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Sometimes you have to just say screw it and just do it! Even thought the consequences could be a punishment…
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Remember you only live once! So enjoy the view!!
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Here’s probably my most favorite shot from today… reason being… not only the really nice lighting, but…
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Check out this comparison shot to the same surf break I took back in 2013. Those are the same rocks (go ahead and scroll back up to take another peek) Ya, those Rocks! Check out the size reference in the rocks and that Mutant Beast of a wave! Pretty Gnar Gnar!!!! Can’t wait for this upcoming surf season!!!
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Ok friends. because that’s what we are here in this short life right! FRIENDS! Just remember, life is short so enjoy much, love deeply and never lose sight of what’s most important! PEACE ~ (Love you til the day I die BIGGIE SMALLS!!!)
RECENT REPORTS
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Hey everyone! Welcome to Monday’s surf report from Panga Drops. The swell didn’t meet expectations today, but it was still really fun. The wind wasn’t bad so we can’t be too disappointed.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
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Happy Friday people! Eric here with your daily surf update! The waves are looking like a lot of fun, we had super light onshore wind, with glassy, head-high waves coming in all morning! Check out the lineup!