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Some really nice sets rolling through, however, today was one of those drive you nuts kind of PD days where even if you tried to hold your position, it just always seemed the ocean wanted to push each and every set completely opposite of where you thought they would pop up. But from the beach….. man it looked pretty Epic!
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Paddling around out there today could not be more accentuated almost with a hint of frustration to the point that it almost seemed like the break itself was messing with everyone’s heads.
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Not only did one of my fav amigos just get back into to town. This was his first paddle out since his arrival last night. Yeah D!!!! So good to see you back in the lineup!
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Mr. Chris here (whom I met briefly, was taking a short little muscle stretching break) got up pretty quickly once he found out I in fact take pictures for a purpose…. but I think mostly it was because the clouds dispersed, the sun light came back out…..
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and the lineup turned into this in mere minutes after it was for the most part pretty gray and gloomy ever since I got down there.
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Some, or well I should technically say most surf breaks like a particular tide. This one obviously favors a bit more water. But I’ve seen this place working on all feet in water levels, be it from a very small toe nail moon, or king high tide Full moon.
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Frothy one eh!!!!! That means there were quite a bit of waves that came through right before this one.
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You got the left, who’s got the right? Who’s gonna take the classic PD back breaker middle of the peak take off???? I bet that’s exactly what’s going through that dude far middle right paddling back out is thinking. Haha
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I’ve always been super biased to the fast breaking sister beachie (which is actually just out of frame in the very very far distance). But then I see a shot like this up this way at the reef and I’m reminded why this wave will and can be a really super fun wave.
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And picturesque too!!! Derek leaning into something that just has to be worthy of that stance and where his eyes are headed!
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BAAAAAAMMMMMM!!! And that my fiends it what I like to call a banger of a closing surf shot!
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If those sneaky uncovered sand straight out, dead center of PD’s shin kicking rocks don’t gettcha… the mega high-tide backwash will!!! This is Brian signing off for Sunday as well as the weekend. Have a safe and enjoyable week my friends. Aloha ~
RECENT REPORTS
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Hey amigos! Welcome to Friday’s surf report from Spot X and Panga Drops. This morning it was slow, but there were still some keepers. Spot X doing it’s thing here. Mutant tubitos.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
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Howdy and Happy Friday amigos from around the globe! Brian here giving you your weekend kick off with one heck of a fun midday afternoon session for your daily surf report. Check-ity check it!