Mr. Green is what this gentleman’s nickname will be. He definitely hard carried today’s surf report.
He opened up today’s report with a beautiful roundhouse cutback.
It’s not uncommon for me to see people initiate solid roundhouse cutbacks, but it’s rare for me to see people get vertical and bash the whitewater corner behind them with power. This guy succeeded with the trickiest part of the maneuver the final blow to seal the deal.
Mr. Green caught at least five waves to all the other surfers single wave. It’s like the parable of the talents from the book of Matthew (I think haha, don’t quote me on Bible history).
This tall fella was delicately cruising on rail with his smaller gear. I feel like he’d be able to manage his speed better with a wider stance, which would enable him to compress at his knees more and keep his back straight while rotating through his turns.
He did considerably better on this steeper section. He had more speed and slope to work with on the wave face so he was able to drive through this turn without getting super duper low at his knees.
Mr. Green never turned down a single end-section today. None were safe haha.
Mr. Green got away with murder here. This sharper top turn chucking a lot of spray in a sharp arc is a risky move when one is so far out ahead of the pocket. He still pulled it off though, like due to his excellent understanding of how to keep his speed via his rail and his smaller frame.
Here’s a more functional and smoother carve given the softer section he faced.
One last little wrap on the inside to complete the ride.
Ahhhh! The waves were gentle today. It worked out well for the individuals I was coaching, but was a little lackluster for the shred masters. Tomorrow should be a little bigger, so stop back in to see what tomorrow brings.
RECENT REPORTS
Hey everyone! Welcome to Friday evening’s surf report from French Fries. After a long streak of very fun waves, the conditions were finally sub-par. Still ride-able at French Fries though.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
Happy Monday friends! Hate to say it… well naaaa, I don’t hate to say anything – that’s not a very good word (at least in my vocabulary), but I believe what I am trying to say is, I have good news for you for todays report and the waves and surfers out there were killing..