I took some photos in the morning just under mid-tide, but nobody was out. It was surprising to me, as the waves weren’t so bad at this time. A few fun, but fast, little rights roping through.
I came back to shoot some more in the afternoon as there were a few more heads in the water. Still a mellow crowd compared to surf season.
Jackson was the only person in the crowd getting waves this afternoon though. It’s like the Pareto rule on steroids. 1% of surfers catch 99% of the waves lol.
After stalling for a quick head dip on the first outside section, he hit the breaks again for a second glimpse of glory on the inside section.
Surfing tests your attention, pattern recognition, and ability to forecast where good waves will come. It doesn’t matter how good of a surfer you are if you’re never in position when the sets come. I’ve had the aforementioned reality ingrained into my skull after watching epic ones slide past me.
Jackson drawing out a smooth bottom turn for an end section blast. A nice fluffy end-section to attack as well.
KAPOW!
While the majority of us simple folk were chasing down corners near the shore, Jeff was out cruising the open sea with a big wing. I imagine he decided to jump out with the foil and wing given the specific speed and side-shore wind direction. Usually people struggle on foils, but Jeff was out there getting some mileage in at a pretty solid and smooth speed. I was impressed. I previously assumed that onshore wind was the necessary condition for kite-surfing or wing assisted foiling to work. Looks like my understanding was wrong, at least for foils + wings.
Although it was smaller today, the sets pounded hard when they did roll through. It was a fairly chill day though and there were fun waves at the appropriate windows if you were alert and prepared to hit the water. Tomorrow will likely be smaller, but Mr. Tony Zeta returns tomorrow to bring us the Sunday fun day conditions.
RECENT REPORTS
Welcome to 2025 everyone! Happy New Year! Josh back behind the lens for the next few days. I basically pulled an all-nighter and woke up early to surf after the late night fiesta. The lineup was empty even at 8:00am and the waves were fun. I surfed then took photos.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
Hello everyone welcome back today i went suring mid tide and there were maybe a little more than a hand full of surfers out there, the water is a little more on the cooler side but still a great time to get out there and practice on your turns or whatever you need to practice.
Hey ya’ll it’s Wednesday and we are between pulses in swell but the weather is amazing and the vibes are sky high. Check it out..
Hola & welcome to Tuesdays surf report! Today we had some bigger sets in the head high plus range later in the day. Those nuclear winds today however were absolutely NUTS…. and thus made that water out there dip even a few more degrees. So be sure to take your best neoprene with you if you’re..