Walking up to the beach somewhere between 8 and 9 oāclock and seeing this would certainly make you run and grab your board if you didnāt already have it with you.
And waxing up your board couldnāt happen any quicker either, when you see all those barrels being taken out there!
It was FAST out there, Iām not going to sugar coat todays conditions, and the winds, even though they were light and not blowing that had first thing in the morning, they were coming on stronger and stronger as each 30 min passed; also the tide was dropping out quickly, which only meant that the window for really premium waves for the AM session was rapidly closing.
The AM curtain call at 8:30am and much like I predict this seasons forecastā¦ going to be pretty epic and empty.
Our lovely river mouth is snaking its way around the beach and trying super hard to make itās way through the front yards of all the first beach homes from Piliās all the way down to Casa Coloradoās. That would explain this special sand bar that this right kept going offĀ every time a really good set came through.
Cover upās today were ON! So if youāre not a fan of hollow wavesā¦. today might of had to have been a lay day for you.
Thereās nowhere else to go at this surf spot (especially on days like today) except straight into the tubo!
But if youāre a surfers surfer. This is what we all live for.
Getting Shacked!!!!
Of course, it sucks to come flying out of a perfect left only toĀ be looking directly into a completely empty right coming at you.
Oh ya, France called the embassy earlier and asked for biarritzās waves back today Jajajajaja!
I forgot, but is it an arms length away for the safety distance of social distancing, right?? If so, this ones totally ok.
Soul arch with super precisional timing on this stalled out bottom turn. Most people who would even try this at this wave would 99% for sure miss the barrel.
But if you know it well enough, then you get to start playing with itā¦. like a toy!
Pig dogging on a Hefty ONE!!!!!
No one likes to see any bombs exploding in any country! The good people here have for sure seen their fair share of things detonating. This is the only acceptation and actually still all at the same time a really beautiful thing watching blowing up!
RECENT REPORTS
Merry Christmas everyone! Josh back behind the lens for the next few days. This evening’s surf report is coming your way from Panga Drops. Today definitely had its moments, but the windows were difficult to hit.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
Hello all and welcome to Thursday’s surf report, the conditions today were great and everybody that paddled out was putting on a show.