It was another one of those, should I wait and see if the waves get a little bigger (with that approaching swell) or should I roll the dice and shoot early while it was sheet glass? Well, here’s your answer. Danny wishing it were sheet glass too, which it was only a few hours prior to this shot.
Kai can surf in any conditions. Like here, making it look easy with this onshore crumbly floater section.
If you like a different angle of his maneuver, well here ya go!
So I must have checked the waves at least 3 or 4 times before it ended up going onshore. My judgment call is usually based on how many people are out surfing. Luckily I had a couple people out in the afternoon who could throw together a few decent combinations on each wave.
Like this!
And this!!
Normally the saying goes “Sun your buns” but down here, if you’re not careful you can actually scorch your buns. So it’s always better to Cool your buns in the nice tropical cool water.
My 5 O’Clock saving grace every time…..
Mr. Cesar, aka Nam Miojo Rengi Kyo (sorry if I hacked that one hermano) dropping into a fun one at around 5:15pm.
What do you do when all you have is lemons??? Well they actually don’t have lemons down here, so you just drink a Toña instead! Jajaja BUT keep the lime for the tequila shots!
Happy April 20th to all of our natural surfing amigos out there!!
And with that, I have to say…. it was still a great day! Be sure to come on back by and I am super double, even triple crossing my fingers that the winds go back to glassy again for the AM surf, and I’ll be out there to get it on with anyone out there who will be hopefully getting super toobed!! C Ya Mañana ~
RECENT REPORTS
Hey amigos! Welcome to Monday’s early afternoon solo-session at French Fries. Lesther pretty much had the lineup to himself out there.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
Happy Saturday everyone! Well, it was another fine day at the beach on our eve of Easter with everyone here celebrating Semana Santa. Waves were in the chest high range with some really clean condition, until some winds starting blowing out of the north right before sunset.
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