Didn’t look like this earlier on the low tide. But there were also a lot less people then, too.
John going back in time hitting 11 o’clock going near vertical counterclockwise!
Do you see any resemblance to Rutci?? Well, you should. That’s little Carlitos, taking on after her mamas style and surf stoke!
Looking back over at the reef, I saw this set approaching and swung the camera around just in time to nab this nice little empty nugget. Looks like only one dude out there surfing it all alone.
Kenny, who actually kills it up at the reef and some other little nooks and crannies of secret spots around the area, came today to play with the barrels.
Jason doing his thing, which is often, just “airing” it out on a classic end closeout section. BOOOOSTING Brother!
Señor Russel pulling into one of the best sets of the day. Yeaaaaaah Dudie!
So yesterday there was only one single barrel that I saw ridden, and today it was back to a lot of barrels and quite possibly we’re seeing some front runners of this new swell that’s heading our way. Mystery barrel surfer….. por que no?
Just the kind of thing you like to see when you’re paddling back out. Perfect A-framing glassy empty wave. Mmmmmmm – Good!!!
Oki Doki my friendly peeeO’pleees! That’s it for todays surf report. Tune in tomorrow for Mr. Chris’s follow up to todays report, as I will be out shooting in a few other far and away surf spots and it’ll be an all day long one! See ya’ll on the flip side ~
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