
With kegs going off like this, why would you want to be any other place?

There was a bit of wait time for the morning sickness to go away, but as you can see….

Patience is a virtue, and the importance of being patient is a trait or better yet, a quality deemed to be morally excellent and thus is valued as a foundation of principle and good moral being. Which is why surfers are perceived as “cool people”.

Haha, ok I just made up that last part, but seriously, Here’s a shot of 3 completely different wave sliding crafts with 3 different patient people who waited and are about to go be rewarded for their diligence for this mornings marathon of a day of waves.

JG actually broke the other board you might have noticed he was walking out with in the previous shot.
As he was coming back in (oddly – well for him not so unusual) he was stoked (I asked if he was ok and the only thing that he got hurt was his pride for the moment), but he was heading home quickly to grab another board ASAP! Good on you John and man what a legend, that’s called getting back on the horse and not letting todays aquatic carousel win that round with you today!

Big Bear-Dog surfing on his lunch break. Yes, it is literally his lunch break from teaching his kids and yes, I was shooting from when people were still eating breakfast until lunch time today. It was one of “those” kind of days out there today.

There’s all the difference between the standard one slight touch of the finger to the aggressive hand stall. But this takes it to a whole other level. The ‘Arm Bar” stall, which I think we can know say MMA has officially been takin’ to surfing’s octagon. I can just feel this wave wants to tap out…. soon!!!

Come on Dr. Dull, let’s see what kind of Jujitsu you gonna put on that wave face!!!!

Dana, which happened to be the only chica out there today; amongst I think I counted maybe about 25+ people out there, so here’s her 25/1 in YO face, check me out dudes, chicks RIP too!!!

This is her man Scott. He’s super gnarly! I just met him on this trip and he’s a super cool dude, but he kept reminding me of someone…. and today I finally figured it out. He’s “The Animal” the drummer from the muppets! Yeah Aneeeeeemal!!!! get some brother!!!

There were so many deep caverns taken today, I am pretty much 99.9% sure I’ve broken my 8 year long streak with how many shots in sequences I’ve ever shot in one session in one day. If you were out there and wanna see them all, you gotta keep reading the rest of the report for my secret link!!!! MUhahahahahaa!

Señor Pelon, (sorry I didn’t catch your name up on the beach today dude) came out of the water frothing to see if I got any of his “Left Hand Bombs” today…. well here ya go buddy. At least one shot from all of the others that I got as well.

We don’t discriminate here one bit, the rights were firing like it was the Fourth of July all day today too!

So much that the entire inside section of the whole break was just a big churned up sand box.

Yeah, like a big sand box for big kids! Like Emi here!!!

Kev, aka Señor Zinger, aka El Capitan, aka the better of the shredders, was out there pimping himself for once instead of all the other musical and artistic talent he hand selects.

On a day with todays size, I was really surprised to see so many corners and the way they were being man-handled out there.

The basis for that last comment meant that usually when its barreling, especially when it’s barreling or as I like to say, “Kegging” as hard as it was, most waves come to an abrupt closeout end section. So in laymen terms, the corners were good things today, very good things. Which I’m sure this guy is just about to go taste after this deep buttery aqua green room from where he’s about to exit.

Every (well usually on a good swell) there are always a “Wave or Sequence of the day”…. well, today I’m gonna give you TWO!!!!

Why, you ask….. because it’s Friday homies!!!! How slotted and picture perfect is this wave Oscar is slamming down!

and many pumps and a few cover ups on one single wave, this is where you’ll find Mr. Espinoza. Flying out, most times with a whole lot of spit usually!

Next up and representing the really BIG and BOMBING river mouth rights that I only saw him and one other person even explore the entire session.

Kevin Cortez standing comfortably tall where most people play crouching tiger while hoping for the hidden draggon.

Kev not only crushed this massive and super long right (and if you look closely – what ended up turning into a mutant double up end close out section that he doggie door’d about as perfect as you can do here…. that’s why they call him the ‘Water Doggy”!!! YEAH buddy… representing your country proud and very well, all you guys out there today!

So any takers mañana? I’ll be waiting patiently…. remember my patience is a virtue caption from way earlier. Be cool! SBS is out for Friday ~Remember, even if you didn’t make the highlights you can always look at the link here for all theDaily Surf Shotsfrom each day, there might be a good chance you’re in there!AND don’t forget to follow us and always check out our current happenings on our daily Instagram stories hereNSRor my photography hereNica Surf Shots
RECENT REPORTS

Hey amigos! Josh back behind the lens for the next few days. Wednesday’s report is coming from Colorados. Today is supposed to have been the bottom of the swell, so it was fairly mellow.
FROM THE ARCHIVES

Thanks for cruising by to check out Thursday’s surf report. We had some fun waves this morning despite some light onshore winds before the tide got too high and the conditions slipped a bit.