What’s better than being a mystery man deep in a barrel?
Being the other mystery man in a deep barrel.
Speaking of men of mystery, here’s my buddy Rick setting up for a nice little inside nuggety barrel. He’s built some of the most incredible sound studios for some of the most amazing musicians around the globe for decades. If you ever get a chance to talk story with him, I guarantee it will be interesting.
I recently read an interesting article about surfers ear (something which I have in both of my ears, unfortunately) and I find it fascinating how we as surfers and our bodies are actually evolving to shut out cold water to help preserve our hearing mechanisms. I just wonder if that’s capable, how long will it be that we find a new study that says our mouths have adapted to fit GoPros naturally? I’m sure pretty soon we’ll be able to record video straight from our eyes though.. wouldn’t that be COOL! Hmmm sumthin to think about.
I’ve always been a ponderer of new ways to improve things with life. Like, imagine if this guy had fins that could drive him perfectly through this section based on wave analysis built into his surfboard. If you’re ever around ask me about my idea about AI controlled automated retractable fin systems. FSC, FUTURES hit me up!
Or you can just stay roots and surf with your trusty reliable surfboard that you’ve caught a million waves on and she keeps on giving!
I’ve seen people shortboard this wave (Julian Wilson, back when he was here filing his first movie “Scratching the surface”), I’ve seen people long board this wave, boogie board this wave, SUP this wave (that Jeff Clarke session was pretty impressive btw) I’ve witnessed Kai Lenny do airs on a Long board here, we’ve even been graced by Buzzy Kerbox and crew/kids foil-boarding this place. So in essence, this place has seen some of the best surfers on the planet. Does it make this wave world class? Maybe yes, maybe no, but there’s something timeless about just sitting there on the shoulder watching a nice wave go by unmolested.
Classic twinny cutty.
Classic no hand backside barrel.
My buddy Sergío is damn near 7 feet tall, so it’s safe to say this wave is a lot bigger than it looks jaja!
No matter how good the party is, look-y-loo’s will always bring the house down.
Danilo on his last wave of the trip. We all have had them. Those damn last waves. Bitter sweet.
This might not be this guys last wave of his trip, but I’m sure he’s stoked seeing his mug here on the surf report!
Brake check!
Fan belt check!
Check MATE!
Frontside rights, aka regular.
Frontside lefts, aka goofy. One’s named after a solid morning POO and the other is after a Disney Character… wtf went down in the 60’s and 70’s of surfing?
Un gran tubo sin obstáculos, delicioso!!!
Ok hombres y mujeres, hopefully this helped jump start the kickoff to a great weekend for you all! Safe travel to my friends as they head home today. Looking forward to shooting and hanging with all my new arriving amigos this weekend. Lets DO THIS!!! Dale pues ~
RECENT REPORTS
Merry Christmas everyone! Josh back behind the lens for the next few days. This evening’s surf report is coming your way from Panga Drops. Today definitely had its moments, but the windows were difficult to hit.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
Hello surfers from around the world! Welcome to Thursday’s Surf Report from Santana beach. The swell is a little bit smaller today but still there are some good size sets every so often.
Hello amigos and welcome to the Humpday surf report at NSR! This is Parker logging in to show you today’s shots. Take a few minutes to check out the waves and our day trip!
Here is a cool opportinuty to support one of our local libraries and have a chance to win an epic vacation in Rancho Santana. To purchase tickets, go to limonlibrary.com and follow the instructions. This goes to a great cause- the Puertas del Saber library is doing amazing things for the locals in the area..