
The primary swell in the water is around 8 to 11 seconds, aka wind swell. This makes for some wonky sections and waves that jack hard. Late drop!

The crowd was right this morning. No more than 5 guys out the whole time I took photos this AM. I guess all the surfers here are getting tired of the onshore at long last haha. Maybe this October will be offshore since we are paying the onshore piper early this year?

Sometimes we just have flow and cruise with what life sends our way just like this rider here. Showing composure in wonky conditions.

Ooohhh an elusive cylinder! Don’t know when we’ll next see one of these… Haha

Force user spotted haha!

Behind the section takeoff. Time to step on the gas!

Eyeing up the target section.

Followed by a quick blast off the top.

A lone solider down at the “Deep South”. He had plenty of space all to himself down there, and was rewarded with some lengthy river-mouth right benders. You can see the chunky wind swell peak about to break on some rocks off our southern headland. Tomorrow’s forecast looks near identical, but with some more rain? It’s dumping hard now so stay dry out there viewers! Hasta mañana.
RECENT REPORTS

Hello and Happy Sunday. We headed off campus today to the south and tried to find some mellower waves. There’s still p[plenty swell in the water. @tonyzphotos bring you the days action.
FROM THE ARCHIVES

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Welcome Mr. Tuesday! I told you I’d be back. Huge THANK YOU to my man Mr. Chris for covering me over the weekend (my normally scheduled days) so I could go take care of a little business outside of the Hacienda playgrounds! It’s always good to get-a-way for a minute, but always feels nice to..

Howdy everyone and welcome back for the Monday surf report. Well, I am here to report that today was a complete onshore and backwards windy lay day. Not uncommon though as we’ve seen this similar pattern in the years past, matter a fact we’ve got to be feeling pretty lucky with how much really good..