
It was actually pretty nice out first light but the tide was peaking Full on High and I knew if I waited it out for just a little while after that tide line came down a tad from high to medium, it was game on! Here’s a shot of one of the many randoms who was scoring perfect PC’s (when the sunlight came back out).

Here’s an earlier shot, more like when I first got down there. Aaaaand of course the light went way, AND it was partial sprinkling/raining, BUT the waves were ON FIRE!!!!

Today was one of those days where I shot a grip of sequences and the editing time is always a beast to work on, but it’s always well worth every minute, or I should say hour. early morning dude getting shacked to help wakey wakey for his Monday!

I will say that going through todays shots was pretty nuts for me! There were sooooo many good waves. I am sure Ricky (swimming getting the water shots today) had the same notion for today as well.

Here’s about when the light rain let up and the sun finally came out.

AND with it brought EVERYONE else! jajajaaaaaaa btw, this is a shot of only one of the 3 or 4 legit peaks working. So you can imagine, the people came out of the wood work to play today.

But ironically, the waves were so insanely consistent and with many multiple peaks working, I think this place handled the crowd factor pretty well, well that and you had better be in the right place at the right time because there were a lot of sets like this that caught a lot of people off guard and I saw quite a few empty waves going by unridden despite the thick crowd.

Colorados showing her teeth today!

A lot of energy out there in the water, but the people were frothing with equal energy, almost like they hadn’t surfed forever; or in reality, the exact #1 reason every surfer comes here.

FOR THIS!!!!!

Catch your bomb and then wait for the sets to stop long enough so you can paddle back out. Another example of a completely empty one that got away!

This last sequence was by far the biggest wave I saw for the entire time I was shooting.

I was posted up so far from the all the hub bub (my little secret spot tucked away, way up in the jungle) where I was also seeking shelter from the morning drizzle. The beach club however and surrounding areas actually looked like a space shuttle launch from Cape Canaveral there were that many cameras out. LOL!!! Best shot and angle of Derek’s wave was for sure by Rick in the water and my land shot from the “Jungle”.

Keep in mind too D’s riding like a tiny little 5’3” or maybe 5’4” twin fin (possible even smaller?). Him even paddling into this thing is mind boggling.

The view must have been absolutely spectacular!!! (Check out Ricky popping out the back of the wave).

By far the wave of the day IMHO!!! Sick one Derek “Habanero Chilé Cabro” Thomas!

Da boyz, I mean the real Local Boyz checking it, waiting for that tide to drop out even more (which means even more hollow and way heavier big square barrels) just a short walk from their front door. It was a great way to start the week, I heard it is supposed to possibly be bigger tomorrow, so lets let the show roll on! See ya out there mañana ~Remember, even if you didn’t make the highlights you can always look at the link here for all theDaily Surf Shotsfrom each day, there might be a good chance you’re in there!AND don’t forget to follow us and always check out our current happenings on our daily Instagram stories hereNSRor my photography hereNica Surf Shots
RECENT REPORTS

Howdy, howdy everyone! Josh back behind the lens for the next few days! The epic run of surf we’ve had continued today. But I do think today was the last of it for a while.
FROM THE ARCHIVES

Happy Sunday everyone and good to be back after a couple days off. Today we had some fun chest to head high waves out there in the afternoon… check it out!