August 31st, 2023

Somewhere in Nicaragua

At long last amigos! Colorados is back from the dead haha!

The lefts definitely dominated the lineup this morning. It seemed to me that more and more rights began to show up through the day approaching dark.

I had a few of these today. I know your pain amigo… I’m 5 pounds heavier and wayyyy out of paddle shape after not getting a proper barrel in over a month.

Fu******** there were some absolute beauties that came in during the late morning session. This window while I was shooting was definitely the best window of the day.

Now for the barrel of the day sequence from Jeison, one of the local Nicaraguan rippers who lives just on the other side of the beach club river.

It takes a bit to get me excited when it comes to surfing, but I was cheering from the beach while shooting this sequence.

This wave was an absolute beast. I bet Jeison’s core muscles were all working at full strength to seek stability on top of the frothy rip he had to ride over.

It would’ve been easy to try to doggy door or pull the plug early upon getting deep over the skatey rip, but Jeison simply plowed ahead.

If you zoom in here, you can see Jeison going for the doggy door exit as the rip current end section begins to clamp and implode. The truth is he didn’t escape the jaws of this behemoth, but I’d say it was a make because of how far he traveled. All the way to the end. Just got hosed by the rip haha. I know your pain Jeison, I’ve had this one a few times.

A fallen soldier. It was no joke today! I had a couple of moments where I was struggling to get up to the surface after getting pounded by sets on the way back out haha.

The elusive right hander! Style for miles from our mystery surfer here.

Kai DeLorenzo boosting one of his signature big oopers.

Yeah… It was pretty good today. I came exited the water this evening with nothing to show though, so I’m hoping I can get my act together tomorrow.

Jeison doing his usual madman sends. Big closeout? No problem, he’ll send it.

Oscar found some shade out there today as well. He was dealt a tricky section here though. Notice that chippy chandelier section ahead of him.

Another bomb closeout set hellion! Standing tall as demise is imminent haha.

Ryley opened the report, and he’ll close it here too! Perfect form on the takeoff, but another tricky section tossed his way by the “dealer”. That’s how it goes when you’re steep n deep though!

Alrighty amigos! There were some epic makes and some epic falls today. I bet most of the surfers are sound asleep now hoping to be fully recovered for tomorrow morning’s daybreak session. Tomorrow looks like it will be really good as well, so be sure to stop back by for tomorrow’s action.