September 4th, 2024

Somewhere in Nicaragua

The consistency of tubes picked up more and more through the morning and early afternoon. About half of the morning’s surfers just stuck to turns.

Oscar making the decision to skip a quick moment of shade for the sake of lining up a big turn.

The professional visiting from Brazil managed to find one of the two best waves of the morning session. He took an excellent paddle line into this mesmerizing right.

Perfectly groomed offshore cavern. This is what Colorados is all about.

He was very deep on this right, so I wasn’t sure whether or not he would make it. I was definitely rooting for him.

This right was arguably the best wave of the morning. Unfortunately the Brazilian was just a little too deep and behind the section. The wave still unwound perfectly at the corner though.

During the same set, Kevin followed up with wave number two. Kevin also set himself up perfectly on this right-hander. Keep an eye on the guy pulling out at the corner though as his action becomes relevant later in the wave.

Kevin’s behind the curtain and is on track to weave through one of the better waves of the morning. However you can see that the guy at the corner did not pull back in the most graceful manner, and hence created a snowball or chandelier section.

At this point in the sequence I was pretty bummed. Kevin did what he could, but the guy kind of stuffed him. Now I know that sometimes depending on one’s position it can be hard NOT to make a snowball, especially on very glassy and clean days. However, I flicked through the sequence and this guy had ample time and awareness that Kevin was definitely going to get the wave, so he could’ve been more cautious. My point of harping on this is that when you “back people up” who are deeper than you, then you need to do your best to ensure you DON’T snowball them. It just takes some coordination and effort on your part, and if you are careless you could ruin someone’s best wave of the day. Good surf manners 🙂

Kevin somehow made it through the snowball section, but I could tell that having to push through that water slowed him down and disoriented him during his ride. So he didn’t make it in the end, but he made the most of the situation.

Uh oh! Whenever you see someone’s front knee down while surfing it is usually gonna be a tricky ride for them haha! A new pigdog style?!

Dani Cruche represented us goofy-footers with one of the better waves of the morning. Well it was the best tube that was completed while I was shooting.

He was deep in there and the wave was slightly overhead. Definitely a keeper so far.

I saw the section start to race on him and I was thinking it would be an uphill battle for Dani.

He was fully behind the lip during that last section and I was starting to think Dani was a goner. But all of a sudden right as the wave was shutting down he came shooting out of the exit. He’s not home free just yet though.

Unfortunately the camera focus trolled me hard right as Dani emerged from the detonating closeout section. He came out of this barrel like James Bond — 0-0-7.

Another beautiful south peak right runner. The rivers flowed into the sea at a moderate pace overnight, so the water was a bit murkier at the south peak today. The offshore wind blew most of the river water out to sea though.

Lesther blasting the lip hard on this right. I’m sure he slid through a few epic tubes later in the morning.

Here’s a quick glimpse of Pangas. It even looked really fun up there. We lucked out today with the really fun waves. I don’t know what tomorrow will bring, but I feel like the energy was picking up through the day. We’ll see what tomorrow brings!