I have the very lucky to take photos to the first surfer champion of Brazil my buddy Paulo Sergio de Matos. He was charging the big waves. This is how I want to surf when I have fifty four years old. Was a placer bro!!!!!.
Paulo Matos is from Sao Paulo and they have good waves near his town, but here he was enjoying the one of the best wave in Nica Land.
Here Hiro Kuni Asada is droping this wave from the back door. This is how good was the peak in the noon. This surfer were takin waves overhead during tree hours and I listen after we lieve the point the waves still powerfull, perfect and big.
We were checking three diferent surf spot in the morning and the offshore wind was light, so the waves were a little mushy in some beaches, but in the noon the sun bring more offshore wind. Fabio Salerno was part of the crew here he is experimenting the speed of a overhead wave, they are passing the four day of vacation and they already scoring such a good waves in Nica land.
in the afternoon I went down the beach again to see what was happen with the low tide and ddd surprise. The waves were better.
this left was on fire. I have a long time to don’t see this left working like today.
Here Pablo is dropping early to be in the tube. The low tide was better than the high tide, but all day was able to catch waves.
Paulo Asada was in one of the bumps. He was pull into a super thick wave couple times and never break his board for lucky.
The rights are always working in the last few days. This peak have the better size, but no have to consistency like the left.
I think Josh Springfield drop one of the biggest wave today. Here is the proof, this young surfer have a talent for drop the bumps. We want to see what your limit. I think so far, I seen you in waves of eight solid feet.
Geeeerrrrroooonnnniiiiiimmmmooooooooo oooo …Uppppssss….
Scott broke a board two days ago, but that not impede to he come back for another tube. Well, this is the number four Hayden Shape ( Hypto Krypto board ) who I see broken in this beach.
And one more today…. is time to go home and bring another board Kevin, that board have three month but in you hands that board have three years already with the thousand miles and a thousand airs and ( ripasos ) of you. Well, Shapeshifter need to give you another one.
RECENT REPORTS
Merry Christmas everyone! Josh back behind the lens for the next few days. This evening’s surf report is coming your way from Panga Drops. Today definitely had its moments, but the windows were difficult to hit.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
Hello my friends. We keep having a little of swell. There are four peaks working. Some are soft, but the north peak have some bumps occasionally. Check it out.