September 13th, 2021

Somewhere in Nicaragua

If you peep to the bottom far right, you can see Derek running down to jump in before that tide got any lower.

Here’s a more realistic perspective. See that boulder D-man walking past. Well that’s one of the many many land and water mines that you get to navigate while paddling out and also when surfing this crazy wave!

But not only dod you get to worry about what’s below you, today you got to paddle out and catch some of these on the head, if you didn’t time your paddle out very well.

A much cleaner (conditioned) pulled back shot of some of the clean ones coming through that were just as dreamy as they were super thick and super sucio!

Dario was actually out there before Derek got out there, but its good that they at least had the buddy system. Today was pretty treacherous out there and there were a lot of factors where having someone by your side out there definitely helped with the nerves. And trust me when I say, these two dudes don’t get nervous that easily!

Here’s D taking off on what I’d say one of the medium or not exactly one of the bigger sets, yet you can still see it was still pretty heavy out there.

And with that tide quickly sucking out, the waves were doing all kinds of things. Like really weird things.

Definitely a good thing he kicked out.

Dario up next contemplating what he’s got to deal with ahead of him.

Skirting around a section that could easily smash him to the bottom, or on top of one of those giant rocks. Either way you had to really be on your game out there today.

Just like Derek, kicking out was the better decision.

Ohhh look, its a wave eating itself! I saw some waves roll through that were double, triple, even quadruple ups!

As makable a lot of them looked, this one had “Paddle as hard as you can and get into this one written all over it!”

Unfortunately this is a 2 dimensional view of this wave. If you could see how square and mutant-like shapes these things were forming, you’d be a little skeptical even paddling for most of these too!

However, that super drained out gurgle that was on just about every perfect looking wave that started out made you think twice about pulling in. But still not a bad looking wave, even for being as chocolate brown as it is.

Hows YOUR paddle game? This is what you get to face head on as you make the long paddle back out. YEY!!! Jajaja

We’ll just say it was an intense session for my two amigos and I’m stoked they gave me the heads up before they both paddled out. I will leave you with this beautiful left so you have happy thoughts and hopefully no nightmares tonight. HAHA – I really hope tomorrows waves and swell is still pumping because tomorrow is my Friday and I’d really love to get in on some more big juicy wave action. Let’s rendezvous again mañana!Have a great rest of the evening my friends ~