I woke to a little early morning birdie that had sent me a message saying PC was firing NOW… so when you get a text like that, you grab your shyte and haul arse down to the beach lickity split! Like this guy splitting a super bomb peak with some other dude I don’t even know who it was that took the even bigger and heavier right, because well…. my camera can only point in one direction, unfortunately.
Speaking of pointing my camera in directions. Here’s the reef up the way, with not a soul to provide us with a single measurement guide, but I can assure it was at least double the size of what was coming in at the beach break.
MacGrommet size nuggets… eat your heart out Ronald McDonald! Jajajaja
Best and most beautifully epic conditions we’ve seen here for a while, but there’s still plenty of September left to have a repeat “September Sessions” year! You think this guy’s stoked?
I know this guys super stoked…. shoots maybe even a little scared..??? Or maybe not, I would be. That thing looks super heavy!!!!
Mystery pocket snap in the barrel surfer of the day goes to this chap!
If you would like a little pulled back size perspective of todays bombs… take a gander at the guy to the far far left paddling for this behemoth.
The lefts were super fun looking, while the rights were definitely the dominating GO and make it or get blown up… choose wisely out there was the mantra I think.
Mr. Chris aka NSR’s be it all go to man, taking time for himself to prove his real worth to the bosses today! YEAH DUDIE!!!!!
The boys are back in town, the boys are back in town…. That would be Emi and Jett! Yewww guys, good to see you make the little strike mission from Cali.
Actually, pretty darn nice timing, as you see Jett hangin and playing in the big stuff today with the big boys.
I only wonder, was it Jett’s call or Emi’s for this swell??? hmmmmm Jajajaaa
I might have to start a new addition to our mystery peeps. How about “Mystery foreground spray dude”??? Well, whoever you are, you were killing it out there on your backhand on those bomb rights. My hat, or actually when I’m shooting, it’s a sombrero, but my sombrero’s off to you mystery spray dude!
There’s going big and then there’s going BIG. There’s a big difference.
What… lady barrel killers out there too! YUP… and they’re creeping’ up on ya’ll (guys) so you better be ready when you’re getting out barreled by a handful of ladies in the lineup.. and the best part is, you don’t get to get all agro with them. Because, well….. you know that’s just not gentlemen-like behavior! 😉
The other Mr. Chris, who rides the the other direction. But getting just as shacked as “Dudie” Chris.
Closeout section’s number one best last minute decision of the day! And it just looks super sick!
Ok, you all ready for this!!?!? Because you can’t have a day like we had today without a banger and one of the best sequences for finish things off, right? RIGHT! Yeah, that’s one Hefty wave right there.
The lip on this thing wasn’t just thick and looking to take this guy completely out, and it had all kinds of attitude to it!
But this hombre surfed it like a champ!
I can’t even imagine the view, the sounds of the sucking water up the face with the foam ball water exploding all while this guy drove through this cavern before getting lit up. Yeah he didn’t make it, but he gave this wave the best run for its money anyone out there could have. Nice job man!
Ohhhhhh…. I take that back. Just look at that sinister grin on Carlos’s face!!!!! HAAAAAAA…! He just saw that same wave and yeah, that look on his face says only one thing…… GAME ON!!!!!Thanks for peeping todays epic swell we had out there in the water today. Hopefully we have a nice Saturday TGIF mañana all over again…!Saludos ~Remember, even if you didn’t make the highlights you can always look at the link here for all theDaily Surf Shotsfrom each day, there might be a good chance you’re in there!AND don’t forget to follow us and always check out our current happenings on our daily Instagram stories hereNSRor my photography hereNica Surf Shots
RECENT REPORTS
Happy Sunday and thanks for tuning in. We had a drop in swell. Light to onshore winds, and some rain. But still had something to surf. @tonyzphotos reporting.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
It is yet another blue sky beautiful day, the sun always shines brighter after a solid rain. Today the winds are onshore and the swell is down a bit but there were still some fun waves out front. The morning time didn’t see much action but as the tide was getting higher and the sun..