October 13th, 2023

Somewhere in Nicaragua

The photos make it look cleaner than it was. I paddled out later on a 5ft foam twin fin beater board and had fun despite the lump in the wave faces.

This guy was one of the few surfers who braved the size and lump to get some waves. His bottom turn was solid here.

A decent little top turn as well, but his trailing arm prevented him from rotating further through the turn.

Late drop! Although the wind wasn’t super clean, the water has been very warm and the color has been beautiful.

One of the other surfers with a stylish and relaxed backside takeoff. He looks so relaxed that it draws your attention from the size of the head high wave behind him.

A sneaky hollow, double-up right. The rip currents were sucking a lot of water and sand out making for an occasional barrel.

Today’s most active surfer tracking down a no grab mini-barrel down South. I was surprised he was able to find and set-up appropriately for this wave. They were hard to find out there today.

This guy completed a critical end-section floater. Maneuver of the day in my opinion! He had to ride through an airdrop on the way down.

Another picture highlighting the size today.

I bet this wave would’ve spit its guts out if the wind had been offshore.

This picture perfectly demonstrates why it’s a best practice to immediately cover your head on any critical wipeouts you have. In hollow surf, or when you lose control as you fall, you don’t know where your board will end up. That’s why it is essential to cover your face in case your board ends up there!

That wraps up today’s surf action. Tomorrow looks like it could be even larger and we might just catch a glimpse of offshore flow in the morning. Fingers crossed we get some tubes on the table for breakfast!