This was a great barrel that came in, but I’d be willing to bet there were no more than 5 of these gems all morning.
I got some deja-vu from this right. It reminded me of lumpy, but hollow hurricane barrels from back on the east coast of the US.
Let’s get into the surfers’ performances from today! This guy knows how to get horizontal 🙂
This guy with the grey board definitely one the heat today. On these soupy and bubbly wave faces it’s very easy to slide out during a strong turn, but he kept his fins adequately engaged to ride through the maneuver.
Below sea-level and behind the curtain. I told you guys that the tides are extreme right now!
Mr. Grey Board demonstrating some perfect pig-dog form. He needed it given the challenging section he’s about to brawl with.
Another shredder found some shade! Let’s give today’s surfers a round of applause firstly for getting out there (greater men than I) and secondly for sending it into some sandy caverns.
Mr. Grey Board also claimed the title of “Maneuver of the Day”. The whole top section of the lip got ripped up, up, and away!
Mr. Grey Board driving into a beast of a right. He wasn’t letting any quality waves slide.
Unfortunately, his efforts were thwarted. He did the best he could given the wave. If it had been offshore I bet he would’ve been spit out of this right like a canon.
This wave brought a new meaning to the word sloppy. I imagine navigating this drop would’ve been similar to hanging onto an angry bull.
AVALANCHE!
Mr. Grey Board sending it on one last crunchy left to close out today’s surf action.
I was stoked that some inspired surfers tried their hands at the waves today! The morning window was definitely the best, as the wind came up immediately after I finished shooting. Let’s hope the wind isn’t so bad again tomorrow. Thanks for checking in and see you tomorrow!
RECENT REPORTS
Welcome to 2025 everyone! Happy New Year! Josh back behind the lens for the next few days. I basically pulled an all-nighter and woke up early to surf after the late night fiesta. The lineup was empty even at 8:00am and the waves were fun. I surfed then took photos.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
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