There were a few other surfers out earlier, but by the time I got the camera out, Lenny and Chocoyo were the only locals out catching all the waves. Here’s Lenny, playing catch up on a nice little left.
I was surprised to see such perfect waves coming in with not a crowd in sight. Where’s my board when I need it?
Perfection in paradise.
Definitely not a bad day to take the family down the beach. Just make sure you bring the babysitter so you can sneak away to catch a few waves.
Distant peak showing it’s face from time to time this morning as well.
Here’s Chocoyo on a nice little nugget, looking for the barrel.
When you’re this small it’s almost impossible not to get barreled!
Just like that! Piece of cake!
All right folks, that’s our show for today. Be sure to tune in tomorrow, and if anyone needs lessons on getting barreled, come down and talk to Chocoyo! Hasta manana amigos.
RECENT REPORTS
Hey amigos! Welcome to Monday’s surf report from French Fries. The waves were pretty much firing when I rocked up to take pictures, but just like yesterday the wind went side-shore as soon as I put the camera away. At least some surfers caught the magic window.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
What’s going folks?Lucha went to the beach this morning and found some fun and nice shape waves rolling in.It was running about chest to shoulder high on the bigger sets, the winds were quite strong offshore and chilly water.
Classic Black NSR “Rasta” shirts still available for Christmas. Matt looks good, but you could look better. Shoot us an email ([email protected]) if you want one and we’ll have it delivered straight to your house. Only a few more left, so let us know if you need one.
What’s up folks, this is Pancho here with your Sunday Surf Report. We are all stoked that the waves came up a little bit today. It looks like we are getting a short, late-season groundswell for the next day or so. Waves today were running about head-high on sets, the winds were offshore all day..