
It was low tide, the crowd was thin and the barrels open wide, great time for photos.

Colorado’s top embassadors were happy with today’s conditions… Kevin setting up his line and ready to go deep on this one.

He stayed deep in the barrel for a few seconds (I even thought he didn’t make it) and suddenly he came out of a barrel half the size of it’s original size at full speed and ready to hit the lip.

Guess who caught the second wave of the set after Kevin’s?… the other top Colorado Ambassador, Goofy footer Jackson Obando , picking up his line and follow Kevin’s trail.

Jackson also came out as clean as a whistle… you’ll probably see this back-to-back rides on video in Instagram, go find them!

After spending 11 days in Managua, 7 of them with my youngest kid in the hospital, I’m so happy to be back at my house, at the beach, with a healthy little boy jumping and playing again with his older brothers!

Something I realized while at the hospital is that I need to learn how to be extra careful of what I wish for (or at least be more detailed on the wish)… the hospital walls are painted light green, not precisely the kind of green room I was wishing for, and definitely not in those circumstances. Here is Kevin very comfortable inside the right kind of green room we all want.

Now that I’m back, it’s time to wash away the hospital and the experience, now I need a good old surf session, no rush, no stress, just me inside my green room.

I’ll be happy with a few turns per wave, but I’ll be stoked (or psyched as J.O.B. says) if I get a few barrels too.

Hopefully tomorrow the waves will look like today: clean, glassy and barreling, but I just checked… the forecast says it will be onshore (lucky me!) but around the same size… we’ll see how it goes.

I will definitely sleep with all my fingers crossed, dreaming all night of me surfing waves like this. I will appreciate if some of you dream the same as me, for me (not you, this is my dream)… thanks!

In case some of you are wondering about what happened to my almost 3 year old kid… he developed Multisystem Inflammatory Syndrome (MIS-C), which is a rare but serious condition associated with COVID-19 in which different body parts become inflamed, including the heart, lungs, kidneys, brain, skin, eyes, or gastrointestinal organs. **Read more about MIS-C

Please be safe, stay healthy and protect others. Let’s all keep surfing until we’re old. Cheers everyone!!
RECENT REPORTS

Hello and Happy Tuesday, We had some rain overnight and into this morning. After it let up I went down to have a look. @tonyzphotos reporting.
FROM THE ARCHIVES

Bienvenido Tuesday surf report amigos. Yup, another day of onshore winds and unfavorable waves. On a positive note, the lighting around sunset time was incredible! See, there’s always something to find extraordinary out of the ordinary, if you now how to look for it!!