When I first went down to check the surf it all people swimming, I waited around for about 10 minutes and a few people paddled out and it looked pretty fun.
Chris Conner was one of those people, here he is cracking the end section.
And Chris picked off a nice long barrel.
going, going….
And making a nice exit. Great wave Chris!!! Checkout Chris youtube channel @anotherdayinthe life and you’ll probably get to see his POV from his GoPro soon.
There were some good lefts too!!! Swell should be on the rise and forecasted to be some size starting tomorrow. Keeping the fingers. crossed.
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FROM THE ARCHIVES
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