
I suppose it’s not fair to always (well, almost always) be able to show off how good the waves are in this region of the world. But then again, the whole point is to share with you how lucky we are to be able to surf here and hopefully, if you haven’t yet made the trip here; this will maybe inspire you to come visit.

I’m feeling inspired, but I have to work. Yup, just like all you guys and gals who like to look at these puurdy pictures.

The younger generation has definitely had the upper advantage ever since the world wide web came along, which in surfing years, hasn’t really been as long as one would think.

Take for instance. My generation and those before me only had magazines to read and look at. And those only came once a month.

Then came the VHS tapes which were mind blowing to see what we only saw in print form come to life in real live action from some of our most cherished and favorite surfers on the planet.

Then of course came DVD’s…. and it isn’t until over a decade or more until the global world of surfing would be viewable via the world wide web.

This opened up a whole new realm of surfing possibilities for anyone, anywhere who loved to partake in the wave sliding club. So back to my original point about how the younger generation has definitely had the upper advantage, well, take a look around at how hard charging and eager the younger the surfing talent has and is becoming. It’s mind blowing.

Just about as mind blowing as this blow tail that I’m sure took years to perfect.

Now kids are doing it in under a year…. and trust me, I’ve watched all this unfold, right here in one of the richest wave zones on the planet.

How old were you when you got super pitted and spit out???

One of the many facts, much like death and taxes, if you surf, you will eventually break your first board. The fact this guy is still smiling, shows that the wave he must have broke it on was worth every penny!

With all this said, I’m not just talking about mediocre surfing either (although, no one… and I mean NO ONE!!!) starts out doing moves like this. But the hunger and fire inside that I see in surfers in todays surfing world is relentless.

I guess it has a lot to do with how much you need to prove your self worth out there amongst the latent pool, be it here or your local break. Everyone wants to be noticed.

Well, that’s where my job comes in. I’m especially watching; even though most people don’t even know I exist. But when you surf and you come in feeling like you just had one of the best days of your life and you get to repeat that feeling over and over and over again. I don’t think there’s any other activity that can give you the same sensation, than surfing can.

This kids got “The Feeling” and I’m sure he’ll still have it for many more years to come.

Take my amigo Derek here, for example….

He’s around my age (a little younger actually) but he surfs like he’s 16.

Is surfing really the untold true fountain of youth???

Morgan believes so…. so much he’s even giving his complete respect to mother ocean that provided him with what he said to me directly “These are by far the best waves he’s ever surfed in his life”!

Stoked on life, stoked on surfing, happy people is what the world needs right now. Surfing is the cure! Go on… get out there!!Aloha nui loa ~Remember, even if you didn’t make the highlights you can always look at the link here for all theDaily Surf Shotsfrom each day, there might be a good chance you’re in there!AND don’t forget to follow us and always check out our current happenings on our daily Instagram stories hereNSRor my photography hereNica Surf Shots
RECENT REPORTS

Happy 4th of July! The size of the surf dropped notably today. There were still good sets, but patience was key (again). Hard to believe there were no takers on this one!
FROM THE ARCHIVES

Happy Sunday Funday everyone! And what a Funday of a Sunday it was for sure! We had some really dreamy like weather and lighting out there this morning and as that tide for fuller and fuller it just got better and better. Check it out!