Ummm, dude you’re looking the wrong way!
Maybe he was watching this guy get shacked… either way, I’m sure this guy’s feeling all nice and safe in his barrel.
That is, until the wave decides it doesn’t want you on it anymore and smacks you in the cabeza. Waaahhhpaaah!!
I was out for quite a while shooting, but when I first arrived, it was a little lackluster. Oscar flaring it up in between sets.
I knew it would get better with the tide going out, and so did Hot Carl. Showing up just in time when the elements were about to get good!
With all this good swell, Jackson’s been out here every day, doing what he does best.
First frame was his intro, this frame is his outro. He’s like a good book… you don’t want to skip on anything in-between.
There’s one of three things happening here… these guys are either coming back after surfing “the reef” or they’re coming to surf the beachie, OR they surfed the reef and are now going to surf the beachie. Or maybe a 4th option, they’re pooped and they’re gonna go have a great big breakfast. Any and all options are the best ways to start the day here.
As you can see…. Jackson’s clinic was going on pretty much all morning.
Heeeeeyyyy – look who’s back in town. It’s Señor Pancho!! Bienvenido amigo ~
So as I mentioned earlier, we had all kinds of crazy surf going on out there. We had some pretty big steep air drops.
If you look close enough, Lesther’s feet aren’t even connected to his board, but I will let you know he stuck the drop.
We had some amazing light color with every shade of blue the Pacific could produce today.
We had some throaty big python-esque round barrels
and we had some incredible spitting cobras!
There were some absolutely drained out, below sea level caverns
and there were some behemoths you didn’t or shouldn’t go on, if you’re smart enough to not fall for the dangling carrot.
There were some frothy messy, but at the same time beautiful looking foam monsters.
and then there were these!!!! Nice to look at, but No Thanks!
@nocalnicahaving a blast out there today!
So was@fish_have_lipsNice turn Pancho!!!
Jackson cracking one after a quick board change up.
He definitely has his quiver dialed in, doing turns like this.
Ryan likes sitting really deep on those river mouth lefts.
Slamming on the brakes with everything he has, luckily he got this nice long one for his last wave in today.
Carlos has always skipped out on the bottom turn on this wave. It’s probably why he’s one of the most successful barrel riders ever at this spot.
Case in point, sans the unnecessary bottom turn. Deep and as pitted as always.
Jeison, is Carlos’ mini me. Can you tell why???
It was really cool to see Pancho walking down the playa today.
It was even better that I saw him get his first nice tubo after being back.
Looks like you didn’t forget how to ride the ol’ bicycle hermano!!!
Haha – Not even gonna attempt the whole 50 shades thing… I know you were thinking it too. Some things are better left to the visual stimuli. Hope you all had a fantastic weekend and looking forward to seeing what this week has to offer. Definitely come on back by tomorrow as you won’t… I repeat, you DO NOT want to miss tomorrows report. We have a nice surprise fellow photog who will be reporting for you… so come on by to check out there amazing work, you’ll enjoy for sure!!! Chao for now ~
RECENT REPORTS
Hey amigos! Welcome to Tuesday’s surf report from Panga Drops. This lady either ended up a bit later than anticipated or misunderstood what it means to get barreled haha! I’ve got to give her credit for looking at this wave though. You don’t know if you don’t go (or at least look at going).
FROM THE ARCHIVES
Hello everybody and happy weekend! Welcome to the Saturday surf report with Parker. The waves are still fun so check out the shots!