July 8th, 2017

Somewhere in Nicaragua

Not very many people out too early, as I am betting most people were pretty surfed out from yesterdays new swell mega surf-a-thon they had going all day.

This is John Gillem, by far one of the nicest people you’ll ever meet down here. You can always count on seeing him at first light and definitely whenever we have some bigg(er) swell. Nice one buddy!!

We have been seeing more and more body boarders popping up here over the years, especially here at our local Pipelinesque wave. Maybe because it can break like Pipeline on good swell, like we’re getting now; minus the do or die reef that comes with the the legendary North Shore spot.

See what I mean… take away that backdrop and I could very easily sell this to you as Oahu’s famed Pipeline, but on a 3 foot Hawaiian day of course.

There were definitely some slow or mellower moments in-between those really good Big sets, but getting shacked is still getting shacked regardless of size shape or color. We practice equal opportunity surfing here.

Barry – whom I personally know and have seen surf pretty big stuff… also prefers bigger, meatier ones. But also doesn’t discriminate.

The swell energy out there is still pretty heavy. Check out that lipper this guys is trying to get around so he can safely get into that nugget salt mine.

My amigo and vecino, Carlitos Caliente was out there slaying some of the best waves of the morning. This was his first wave of the day and I think he might have even been driving through this thing with dry hair?  Either way, how about that sick curtain about to huck over his cabeza.

Not a drop of water out of place and a perfectly nice in & out. These are the kind of days that make Nicaragua so epic!

I, for one, like to jump around and get out of the box a little, epically when we have some decent swell (which looks like we’ll have for the next couple of weeks). Anyone wanna go find some mysto reefs or sketchy rocky points??? You surf and I shoot you! It’s a win/win!

This is what it looks like, if you were looking into that drainer Carl was on a couple shots back, but a much better angle. Pretty round and hollow.

So now you can imagine how much elbow room this dude has in that little cavern.

I’m officially giving Carl the most radical and improvisational surfer of the year award. He’s surfing in the tube, upside down, feet STILL planted firmly on the deck. He went on like this for about 3 or 4 frames which means he literally surfer the ceiling of a barrel upside down! Take a minute to think about that!?!?! Buddy, I think you have JOB beat on this on! (haha)

Unfortunately (and this happens to everyone of us) – the infamous “one that got away”.

Like I said the tide was draining out.. so it shut down a little as I was wrapping it up this AM. But I can only imagine how good its going to be in a couple of hours, if not already down there.

Austin says… drainer, no schmainer… the guy is like a wave magnet, trust me!

Seeeeee!!! Austin’s 1,934th shack of his trip so far… so many more and coming within these next few days!!!Ok wave riding people. That’s it for my duty as surf reporting field photographer for today. Lots of things happening this weekend, but DO check back in tomorrow to see what’s happening. Have a great rest of the day, estar seguro en la noche and lets rendezvous all over again mañana! Chao ~