Gotta love that warm glistening early morning light, especially hitting those peaky rights.
Only a very small handful of surfers out by the time I got down there, but for those who made it down even before me, were getting some fun waves at the crack of dawn. . . like this dudes crack off this fun little section.
Meanwhile, someone else was still still sleeping in. . . (BIG YAWN!!!!) lol !
The reef was wide awake and ready to play early.
And one of the early birds who loves surfing, diving and anything aquatic at this spot which is literally only a couple hundred yards from his front doorstep. . . and all around good dude and a man’s man, Mr. Hunter!
You can see that the texture was already starting to form with those wind gusts that will only get stronger as the day progresses.
But the glassy and warble look to the wave faces looked or reminded me of those ice caves you see in National Geographic pics.
It was a little lully right when I got down there, and then out of nowhere it kinda started to turn on….!
Like as in the sets staring roping in and with is came more size and nice long walls for doing big carves and taking the football field length rides all the way to the inside.
Like this here, where the inside section can be a little bit gnarly, but if you time it right, you can pull off some rather really cool photogenic images!
Hayden and Hunter splitting the peak. It’s always a coin toss when you have two surfers (both whom you know will make the wave) but I had to follow my instinct and the better lighting (the right of course) and track down my other waterman amigo, Hayden.
A big fat Larry layback and I know Hayden had a bunch of stuff to do today (much like myslef) but before he paddled out he said he was actually on the fence with going diving out there today. But by the looks of it, I’m sure he’s stoked he opted for the surf sesh!
One last look. . . . you always gotta take that one last look, especially when you’re leaving and you see it’s now turning on. So you gotta think to yourself… Hmmmmm maybe I should paddle back out??? Well….. it’s your call my friend! Cheers to a great Tuesday ~Remember, even if you didn’t make the highlights you can always look at the link here for all theDaily Surf Shotsfrom each day, there might be a good chance you’re in there!AND don’t forget to follow us and always check out our current happenings on our daily Instagram stories hereNSRor my photography hereNica Surf Shots
RECENT REPORTS
Hey amigos! Welcome to Saturday evening’s surf report from French Fries and Panga Drops. The surf was surprisingly bigger today. I guess it’s the front runners of the coming swell. Kenny sending it on a head-high set.
FROM THE ARCHIVES
Hola surfistas! Happy Monday and if I had to describe todays surfing conditions, waves, and all around general good vibrations out in the lineup. . . I would have to quote one of my old (and actually quite famous in the surfing world), my buddy Bruce Brown’s (RIP Legend!) his ever so classic line…. “It..